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[""^Coloured  covers/ 
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reprodult  en  un  seul  clich6, 11  est  film6  d  partir 
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et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'Images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

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iMontreal  by  way  of  Chazy 


AM) 


Down  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Quebec. 


A  BICYCLE  TOUR. 


(   I 


LITTLE   CHAMPLAIN   STREET,   QUEBEC. 


\        ■ « 


PRICE    25    CENTS. 


1 


V 


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IVIETRO? 
TO?.  lO 
CENiR.l 
LIBRARY 


OLITAN 


History 


m 


AUTHOR'S  NOTE. 

The  last  chapter  of  this  book  first  appeared  in  the 
Boston  Courier,  under  the  title :  "  Canada's  Attitude 
Toward  the  United  States,"  and  is  re-published  by  per- 
mission. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENT. 

Many  of  the  illustrations  that  embellish  this  narrative 
are  reproduced  from  photographs  taken  by  the  Authors 
during  the  journey,  but  to  the  kind  courtesy  of  The 
Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  whose  splendidly  equipped 
line  and  superb  service  are  so  highly  appreciated  by  the 
patrons  thereof,  the  Authors  are  indebted  for  the  follow- 
ing plates: — Dominion  Square,  Montreal;  Notre  Dame 
Cathedral,  Lachine  Rapids,  The  Cidatel,  Quebec;  Chateau 
Frontenac,  St.  Louis  Gate,  Martello  Tower,  Little  Cham- 
plain  Street,  Quebec;  Falls  of  Montmorency,  The 
Basilica,  (two  views) ;  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre. 


l)i 


\m 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF  CIIAZY 


■<>■ 


AND 


ji  ■ 


:)wn  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Ouebec. 


BY 


ALLAN  ERIC 


A  N  D 


THE  "JUNIOR  PARTNT?]R" 


\i.thorJ»  of.  —  "  Hutkra"   Land,  A  Vacation  Tour  Awb'^c',  Follow- 
ing the  Tow-Path  and  Through  the  Adirondack^  Aw'ic'?', 
The  Coinit  History  of  Spain,  Two  Vears  a 
Castaway  on  a  Tropical  Island, 
Etc.,  Etc. 


1899. 


::i:v 


I 

:   if 

1 


BOSTON: 
Gku    R    NVii.iis  &  Co.,  286  >Vashington  Sirret. 


If 

M 


I 


> 


i 


MONTREAL  by  way  of  CHAZY 

AKD 


Down  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Quebec. 


BY 


ALLAN  ERIC 


AND 


THE  "JUNIOR  PARTNER." 


Authors  of :  —  "  Buckra  "  Land,  A  Vacation  Tour  Awheel,  Follow- 
ing the  Tow-Path  and  Through  the  Adirondacks  Awheel, 
The  Comic  History  of  Spain,  Two  Years  a 
Castaway  on  a  Tropical  Island, 
Etc.,  Etc. 


Wt 

ill 


s  ■ 

I: 


Mm 


1899. 


BOSTON : 
Geo.  R.  Willis  &  Co.,  286  Washington  Stkbbt. 


t 


Copyright,  1899, 
By  the  Authors. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


The  Authors,  en  route Frontispiece. 

PAGE. 

Breakwater  and  Lighthouse,  Lake  Champlain      ...  32 

On  the  Frontier 36 

General  View  c'  Montreal 44 

Dominion  Square,  Montreal 46 

Lachine  Rapids 48 

Notre  Dame  Cathedral,  Montreal 50 

A  Drogher  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River           ....  52 

The  Citadel,  Quebec                       54 

Falls  of  Montmorency           -        - 56 

The  Basilica,  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre 58 

Interior  of  the  Basilica 60 

Booths  Near  the  Church 62 

Shrine  in  the  Garden 64 

Wolfe  Monument,  Quebec 66 

Chateau  Frontenac,  Quebec 68 

St.  Louis  Gate,  Quebec 70 

Martello  Tower,  Quebec        .......  72 

Grand  Battery,  Quebec 76 

On  the  Summit  of  Mount  Royal,  Montreal           ....  78 


wi 

mi 


MONTREAL  by  way  of  CHAZY 


AND 


Down  the  St.  Lawrence  Eiver  to  Quebec. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Such  an  extended  trip,  embracing  something 
Itke  fifteen  hundred  miles,  could  not  be  accom- 
plished wholly  on  bicycles,  in  the  time  at  our  dis- 
posal. But  when  we  were  seated  comfortably  iu 
b  luxurious  parlor  car  and  the  train  on  the  Fitch- 
buig  railroad  pulled  out  of  the  Union  Station,  '" 
Boston,  our  wheels,  luggage  and  full  equipment 
were  in  the  baggage  car  ahead. 

Although  we  had  several  times  ridden  over  the 
Fitchburg  road  on  that  splendidly  appointed  ex- 
press, it  is  always  new,  always  delightful,  ever  re- 
plete with  rare  enjoyment  such  as  luxurious  equip- 
ment, courteous  officials  and  rare  scenery  com 
bined,  can  afford.  The  time  passed  pleasantly, 
with  an  agreeable  traveling  companion,  as  the 
train  sped  on  over  the  length  of  the  State  of  Mas- 
sachusetts, past  fertile  farms,  beautiful  valleys 
and  over  rushing  streams,  making  few  stops  untn 
we  were  within  the  shadow  of  the  Hoosac  Moun- 
tains; and  then  we  began  to  anticipate  that  al- 


^i 


i 

! 


1 

I 


10 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF  CHAZY. 


ways  interesting  experience,  the  passage  through 
tlve  famed  Hoosac  Tunnel,  which,  for  travelers, 
renders  this  line  particularly  attractive;  for  thero 
is  a  novelty  in  shooting  through  a  tunnel,  miles  In 
length,  of  wliich  one  never  wearies. 

A  sudden  exit  from  the  bright  light  of  day,  a 
prolonged  roar,  a  sudden  flash  and  the  train  shot 
into  the  bright  sunlight  of  the  perfect  July  day; 
and  we  realized  that  we  had  passed  under  th^ 
mountains  that  towered  thousands  of  feet  above 
us.  Then  on  to  the  northwest  corner  of  the  state, 
across  a  bit  of  Vermont,  roaring  over  streams 
above  which  darted  great  northern  king-flshers, 
and  the  train  stopped  at  Hoosic  Junction,  a  ro- 
mantic spot  in  the  State  of  New  York.  Here  we 
disembarked,  and  made  haste  to  strap  the  lug- 
gage, the  camera  and  the  large  foot-pump  upon 
the  wheels,  while  an  interested  audience  gathered 
around.  We  formed  a  unique  caravan,  no  doubt, 
for  anyone  could  see  that  we  were  equipped  for  i 
journey,  and  it  is  not  often  that  bicycles  are  seen 
in  such  touring  equipment.  The  case  containing 
extra  clothing,  photographic  plates  and  some 
other  articles  was  forwarded  by  express  to  Bur- 
lington, Vt.,  where  we  expected  to  require  it. 

We  were  bound  for  Eagle  Bridge,  only  two 
miles  distant,  where  we  were  to  embark  on  an- 
other railroad  for  Fairhaven,  Vt.,  for,  having  on 
a  previous  trip  ridden  on  our  wheels  over  this 
route,  we  preferred  not  to  go  over  it  a  second 
time;  therefore  we  proposed  to  make  Fairhaven, 
near  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain,  that  night. 
But  although  Eagle  Bridge  was  but  two  miles 
away,  we  were  obliged  to  ride  back,  eastward. 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY   OF  CHAZY. 


11 


about  two  miles,  In  order  to  cross  the  river;  so  we 
had  really  more  than  four  miles  to  ride  in  reach- 
ing Eagle  Bridge.  While  the  road  had  been  rend- 
ered rough  by  recent  rains,  there  had  been  suffi- 
cient to-^ming  over  it  to  make  a  fair  path  in  the 
wheel  track,  and  we  were  not  long  in  reaching 
Eagle  Bridge. 

Going  up  to  the  railroad  station  we  found  that 
we  had  two  hours  to  wait  for  a  train  on  the  other 
road;  but  the  time  did  not  prove  monotonous,  as 
the  oflScials  about  the  station  made  things  very 
pleasant  for  us. 

When  at  last  the  train  arrived  we  went  aboard 
in  a  smart  shower,  during  which  the  wheels  re- 
ceived a  little  wetting,  all  because  the  baggage 
master  neglected  to  place  them  in  proper  shelter, 
thinking,  probably,  that  they  were  wheelbarrowB 
or  some  such  delicate  machines,  instead  of  pieces 
of  finely  constructed  mechanism. 

Instead  of  starting  on  time,  we  had  a  tedioufc 
wait  which  was  very  annoying  to  us,  as  we  had 
to  ride  over  the  road,  eight  miles,  from  Poultney, 
whither  we  were  bound  by  rail,  to  Fairhaven, 
and,  not  knowing  what  the  conditicL.  of  the  roads 
might  be,  we  naturally  wished  to  go  over  them 
before  dark;  and  every  minute  lost  might  mean 
an  hour  of  stumbling  along  through  the  dark  with 
our  heavily-loaded  wheels.  While  the  fireman  and 
the  engineer  smoked  and  took  things  easy,  we 
consulted  the  time-table  of  this  particular  road, 
from  which  is  taken  the  following  quotation,  by 
which  it  will  be  seen  the  road  lets  itself  down 
very  easy:  "Showing  the  time  at  which  trains 
may  be  expected  to  arrive  at  and  depart  from  the 


■M 


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iH 


i! 


V 


12 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


several  stations,  but  their  arrival  or  departure  at 
the  time  stated  is  not  guaranteed,  nor  does  the 
company  hold  itself  liable  for  any  delay  or  any 
consequences  arising  therefrom." 

But  there  is  always  an  end  to  all  things,  and  so 
at  length,  the  train  started,  and  at  once  set  about 
making  up  lost  time.  The  car  was  !ight  and  the 
speed  being  terrific,  we  were  snapped  around 
curves  until  our  necks  were  full  of  "cricks,"  oup 
backs  were  nearly  broken  and  our  heads  ached 
That  ride  can  only  be  compared  to  a  ride  in  a 
farm  wagon,  without  springs,  drawn  by  a  pair 
of  horses  at  full  gallop  over  a  very  poor  corduroy 
road. 

The  train  stopped  frequently  to  let  passengers 
on  and  off,  and  probably  to  leave  the  mail.  At 
each  station  large  delegations  were  present  to  se? 
the  train  come  in  and  to  shake  hands,  kiss  and 
talk  to  one  another,  while  the  train  waited  for 
them  to  do  it— it  almost  seemed  to  us.  The  ami 
able  conductor,  a  veteran  of  the  road,  seemed  to 
know  everybody  who  got  aboard,  all  up  through 
that  country,  and  greeted  them  as  old  acquaint- 
ances. Between  somp  of  the  stations  he  came 
and  talked  to  us  about  the  people  along  the  way 
which  explained  the  familiar  greetings  between 
him  and  local  denizens  as  the  train  pulled  in  and 
out  of  stations.  He  knew  who  lived  In  nearly 
every  farm-house  beside  the  line,  and  was  posted 
with  regard  to  family  details.  But  he  couldnU 
help  that.  A  man  who  has  been  passing  over  th« 
same  route  for  two  or  three  decades,  must,  of  ne- 
cessity, know  something  about  the  people.  He 
even  claimed  to  know  the  pedigrees  of  most  of 


MONTREAL    BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


IS 


the  hens  in  the  farmyards,  and  related  to  us  how 
he  had  once  partaken  of  a  fowl  at  a  farmer's 
table,  whose  house  he  pointed  out  as  we  Jogged 
past,  but  he  stated  that  he  had  too  much  respect 
for  old  age  to  ever  repeat  the  experiment. 

Meanwhile  the  engineer  had  been  making  up 
time,  so  we  were  only  a  few  minutes  late  li 
reaching  Poultney.  We  made  haste  to  tecure  our 
wheels,  which,  by  the  way,  were  thrown  from  the 
baggage  car  as  though  they  had  been  pig-iron, 
time  being  very  precious  (vide.,  the  quotation  from 
the  time-table).  Hastily  securing  the  baggage  we 
started  for  Fairhaven.  Delighted,  beyond  meas- 
ure, to  find  the  road  excellent,  the  eight  miles'  ride 
was  a  superb  spin.  The  sun  being  set,  the  air 
was  cool,  and  we  glided  by  quiet  pastoral  scenes, 
while  fire-flies  danced  over  the  meadows  and 
across  the  road. 

Just  at  dark  the  lights  of  Fairhaven  glimmered 
ahead,  and  presently  we  dismounted  in  front  of 
"The  Cottage,"  where  a  fair  figure  clad  in  white 
tripped  down  the  path  to  greet  us.  In  spite  of  our 
late  arrival,  thanks  to  a  telegram  which  I  had 
sent  from  Eagle  Bridge  and  to  the  thoughtfulners 
of  the  landlord,  an  acceptable  supper  awaited  as 
and  the  landlord  and  his  wife  sat  with  us  at  the 
table  while  we  ate  and  conversed,  reminiscently. 


I! 

!  i 


i 


CHAPTER  II. 

We  did  not  hurry  about  setting  out  the  next 
morning  for  the  reason  that  we  intended  to  go 
only  to  Larrabee's  Point,  a  little  place  on  Lake 
Champlain,  opposite  TIconderoga,  which,  we  had 
every  reason  to  expect  from  our  experience  the 
summer  previous,  would  be  a  very  easy  run.  We 
were  looking  forward  with  much  pleasant  antici- 
pation to  meeting  again  our  friends  at  Larrabee's, 
also  to  making  a  brief  call  at  a  fam:  house  on  th» 
way  where  we  had  been  so  hospitably  entertained 
at  dinner  on  our  former  tour. 

It  was  a  perfect  morning  overhead,  and  we  left 
Fairhaven  with  every  expectation  of  having  a  de- 
lightful ride.  But  alas;  this  life  is  replete  with 
surprises  and  disappointments,  as  well  as  pleas- 
ures. For  perhaps  a  couple  of  miles  we  rodo 
along  very  comfortably;  but  then  wc  struck  some 
rough  road.  This  did  not  alarm  us,  however  for 
we  believed  it  would  be  only  temporary.  While 
walking  up  a  small  hill  a  party  of  young  men  and 
ladies  on  wheels,  in  faultless  costumes,  overtook 
and  passed  us;  but  it  was  not  long  before  it  was 
demonstrated  that  riders  who  go  out  for  an  oc- 
casional "spin"  do  not  hold  out  against  seasoned 
tourists,  for  we  presently  passed  thom  at  rest  be 
neath  some  trees  beside  the  road  as  we  flew  by. 
while   we   navigated   our  heavily-loaded   wheel<>i 


MONTREAL    BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


16 


over  the  rough  road.    The  further  we  proeeede«l 
the  more  walking  we  did,  until  we  ceased  to  ride 
altogether.      Our    surprise    and    disappointment 
were  great,  as  the  road  continued  to  stretch  ahead 
of  us,  entirely  unridable;  this  road,  which  we  had 
found  so  perfect  a  year  ago.    The  explanation  of 
it  was  that,  two  or  three  days  previous,  there  had 
been  heavy  rains,  and  the  soil  being  clayey,  the 
teams  passing  over  it  while  the  surface  was  soft 
had  broken  up  the  surface,  and  the  day  mud  hav- 
ing dried,  the  result  was  the  roughest  and  the 
most  utterly  unridable  road  that  we  had  ever 
seen;  a  continuous  stretch  of  sharp  projections, 
almost  as  hard  as  flint,  over  which  we  walked 
with  great  effort.    Mile  after  mile   we   walked, 
making  very  slow  progress,  hoping  against  hopa 
that  there  would  be  an  end  to  it.    But  no.    W« 
stopped  once  or  twice  to  refresh  ourselves  wlti? 
wild  raspberries,  and  once  for  a  drink  of  cold 
water  from  a  mountain  stream.    Our  progress  wan 
so  slow  that  we  lost  all  idea  of  our  location,  and 
we  were  getting  desperately  hungry.     We  kept 
looking  for  the  farm-house  where  we  wished  to 
call  and  renew  old  acquaintance,  but  it  did  not 
appear.    Finally  we  concluded  that  we  must  have, 
in  some  way,  left  the  right  road;  and  so  we  lifted 
our  wheels  over  the   fence   and   struck  across  a 
field  toward  a  house  on  the  other  road,  which  ran 
to  the  right  of  us,  only  more  to  the  east  than  the 
one  we  were  traversing.    At  this  house  we  made 
inquiries   that   resulted   in   no   satisfaction,   and 
after  the  farmer  and  his  robust  family,  who  were 
sitting  on  the  veranda  digesting  their  recent  din- 
ner, had  favored  us  with  a  pitcher  of  ice-water— 


0 


m 


Id 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


and  we  were  surprised  to  find  Ice  at  a  farm-house 
—we  went  on,  taking  a  near-by  cross  road  back  to 
the  road  we  had  left.  We  walked  on,  silently, 
doggedly,  well  nigh  discouraged;  for.  If  this  con- 
dition continued,  there  was  no  hope  of  reachinir 
Larrabee's  that  day,  or  even  the  next.  While  as- 
cending a  long  hill  we  fully  decided  that  further 
effort  was  useless,  for  we  were  very  tired  and 
nearly  famished.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  we  saw  a 
farm-house,  and  hurried  to  it  with  the  hope  that 
we  could  obtain  something  to  eat;  but  to  our  great 
disappointment  it  proved  to  be  deserted.  Here  the 
Junior  Partner  said  that  she  could  go  no  further, 
and  to  me  the  outlook  appeared  hopeless.  Leav- 
ing her  on  the  veranda  of  the  deserted  house  I 
walked  on  a  few  rods  to  where  I  could  see  down 
the  other  side  of  the  hill,  hoping  to  discover  an- 
other house  not  far  away;  but  there  was  none, 
only  an  interminable  road,  rough  and  unrldable. 
stretching  on  and  on.  It  was  now  nearly  the 
middle  of  the  afternoon.  Going  down  into  a  field 
where  some  men  were  at  work,  I  got  some  wate** 
in  half  a  cocoanut  shell  and  carried  it  to  the  Jun- 
ior Partner.  Slightly  refreshed,  we  retraced  our 
steps  about  half  a  mile  to  a  road  we  bad  passed, 
leading  to  the  westward,  to  Benson,  near  the  lake. 
If  we  could  reach  there  we  felt  sure  of  getting 
something  to  eat,  and  hoped  to  find  some  trans- 
portation up  the  lake.  As  we  reached  the  Junc- 
tion of  the  roads  we  saw,  coming  toward  as,  a 
team  heavily  loaded  with  lumber.  There  were 
two  men  with  it,  and  we  anxiously  waited  to  see 
if  they  were  going  toward  Benson,  and  a  great 
load  was  lifted  from  us  when  the  team  turned 


MONTREAL    BY    WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


n 


Into  the  road  nnd  the  men  readily  consented  to 
take  us  and  our  wheels  to  Benson.  So  the  Junior 
rartner  was  Riven  a  seat  beside  the  driver,  while 
I  rode  on  the  top  of  the  load,  steadying  the 
wheels. 

Thus  we  rode  Into  Benson,  and,  oblivious  to  the 
curious  stares  of  the  villagers,  got  off  at  the  hoteL 
To  the  landlord  I  made  known  our  situation,  and 
asked  that  he  furnish  us  with  something  to  eat. 
It  was  far  past  the  dinner  hour  and  he  did  not 
enthuse  over  the  proposition;  but  I  told  him  thnt 
we  must  have  something  to  eat,  and  that  there 
could  be  no  ifs  or  ands  about  it,  whereupon  he 
called  his  wife,  and  we  sat  down  to  a  very  indif- 
ferent meal  at  a  good,  round  price.  However,  It 
was  better  than  nothing. 

While  at  the  table  we  discussed  with  the  land- 
lord concerning  the  means  of  getting  to  Larra- 
bee's.  There  was  no  steamer,  and  it  did  not  ap- 
pear very  certain  that  we  could  reach  the  ferry, 
about  ff>ur  miles  away,  catch  the  sail  ferry  boat 
and  get  across  the  lake  In  season  to  get  a  train  on 
the  other  side.  In  the  course  of  conversation  we 
mentioned  going  to  Larrabee's  by  team,  and  I 
asked  the  landlord  what  he  would  charge  to  take 
us  and  our  wheels  there.  He  named  a  price 
which  seemed  reasonable,  and  to  it  we  agreed. 
Almost  as  soon  as  we  had  finished  dinner  a  team, 
consisting  of  a  pair  of  horses  and  a  beach  wagon, 
was  ready,  and  with  the  wheels  In  behind  us,  we 
started.  To  our  surprise  the  driver  turned  In  the 
opposite  direction  from  Larrabee's,  and  the  Jun- 
ior Partner  mentioned  it  to  him.  He  was  greatly 
surprised,  for  he  had  been  ordered  to  take  us  to 


i 


18 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


the  ferry.  So  we  turned  around  and  returned  to 
the  hotel,  had  a  few  words  with  the  blundering 
landlord,  made  a  new  price,  a  dollar  more,  and 
started  again. 

We  will  pass  over  the  ride  briefly;  though,  un- 
der any  other  circumstances  and  condition  of  the 
Foad,  which  allowed  the  horses  to  proceed  at  a 
pace  but  little  faster  than  a  walk,  it  would  have 
been  enjoyable  and  romantic,  as  it  was.  It  was 
not  very  unpleasant,  though  several  stops  were 
necessary  to  re-adJust  the  wheels,  and  we  arrived 
at  Larrabee's,  driving  up  to  "The  Locusts"  Jost 
about  sunset 

The  welcome  which  we  received  after  our 
gloomy  day  from  the  Doctor,  the  "Pilot"  and  from 
"Jack,"  made  us  forget  our  trials.  Nor  shall  we 
ever  forget  that  first  evening  at  that  delightful  re- 
treat close  to  the  lake— and  we,  the  Doctor  and  I, 
smoked,  and  smoked,  and  smoked,  until  a  late 
hour,  our  smoke-talk  being  occasionally  broken, 
nowever,  by  the  congenial  society  of  the  ladies; 
for,  be  It  here  known,  the  "Pilot,"  "Jack"  and  the 
Junior  Partner  were  all  of  the  fair  sex. 


CHAPTER  III. 


Our  friends,  we  learned,  had  no  idea  of  aUowttig 
us  to  go  on  the  next  day;  on  the  contrary,  they 
had  laid  plans  for  our  entertainment  and  pleas- 
ure, no  less  than  a  voyage  down  (no,  up)  the  lake 
on  the  Doctor's  steam-yacht  "Refuge."  Now 
about  going  "up"  the  lake.  I  never  could  get 
Lake  Ghamplain  straightened  out  in  my  mind,  b» 
cause  one  naturally  associates  south  with  "dowQ,'* 
and  north  with  "up;"  but  as  the  head  of  Lake 
Ghamplain  is  to  the  south,  and  the  foot,  where  It 
empties  its  waters  through  the  Richelieu  river  la- 
the  St.  Lawrence,  is  to  the  north,  when  you  go  up 
the  lake  you  go  down,  and  when  you  go  down  thin 
lake  you  go  up— up  south  and  down  north  sounds 
funny,  but  the  lake  is  wholly  to  blame. 

The  Doctor  said  something  about  calling  us  in 
the  morning.  But  that  wasn't  necessary,  for  I 
got  up  half  a  dozen  times  in  the  night  and  looked 
out  of  the  window  to  see  if  we  were  to  have  a  fine 
day,  and  so  I  was  awake  about  as  early  as  the 
Doctor  was. 

The  Doctor,  with  the  aid  of  his  big,  handsome 
dog  "Don,"  his  inseparable  companion,  had  got 
the  curtains  of  the  "Refuge"  snugly  stowed,  and 
she  lay  at  her  anchorage  as  jauntily  as  a  duck. 
The  morning  was  beautiful  and  the  lake,  spark- 
ling in  the  bright  sunlight,  reflected  the  shadows 
of  the  magnificent  locust  trees  on  the  lawn  at  the 
water's  edge— not  forgetting  the  cork  tree. 


20 


MONTREAL   UY   WAY   OF    CHAZY. 


The  Doctor  appeared  at  the  breakfast  table  clad 
for  a  long  voyage.  The  Pilot  and  the  Junior 
Partner  were  in  good  spirits,  and  Jack  was  us 
sweet  as  the  pinks  that  blushed  on  the  lawn. 

To  add  to  the  pleasure  of  the  day,  there  had 
been  invited  three  young  ladies  and  a  gentleman, 
all  of  whom  appeared  in  good  time.  During  the 
embarkation  of  the  stores,  Jack  assisted  the  Doc- 
tor, and  rambled  about  from  one  rocking  boat 
to  another  as  though  they  were  solid  rocks.  A 
thorough  boatman  is  Jack.  Meanwhile  Don  got 
terribly  excited  for  fear  that  he  was  not  down 
upon  the  ship's  papers  for  the  day's  voyage;  and 
I  fully  believe  that  it  would  have  broken  his 
heart  if  he  had  been  left  behind.  He  obediently 
lay  upon  the  lawn,  at  the  Doctor's  command,  un- 
til the  stores  were  aboard,  and  the  ladies.  But 
then  he  could  no  longer  endure  the  strain,  for  he 
rushed  down  to  the  landing,  barking  joyously,  and 
was  transported  to  the  Refuge.  Then  he  was  su- 
premely happy. 

All  aboard  and  snugly  stored,  and  Jack  lighted 
the  fire  under  the  boiler.  In  an  incredibly  short 
time  steam  was  up  and  the  Doctor,  who  was  chief 
engineer,  started  the  engine.  The  Doctor  is  as 
skilful  an  engineer  as  ever  opened  a  throttle  on 
Lake  Ghamplain.  He  knows  a  marine  engioe 
from  eccentric  to  crank-pin,  and  the  slightest  un- 
usual sound  from  the  engine  while  it  is  working 
attracts  his  attention  and  causes  him  to  feel  at 
once  for  the  proper  tool  with  which  to  set  every- 
thing right. 

The  Pilot,  who  is  duly  licensed  as  such,  took  the 
wheel,  and  as  the  screw  began  to  revolve  the 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF    CHAZY. 


21 


Refuge  swung  gracefully  around  and  headed  for 
the  draw  (?)  bridge  over  which  the  railroad 
crosses  the  lake,  which  Is  narrow  here.  The  Pilot 
blew  the  whistle  for  the  draw  to  be  opened,  and 
then  she  disturbed  the  atmosphere  with  the  syren. 
This  syren  will  bear  looking  into,  as  the  Doctor 
said  one  day  as  he  gazed  down  its  yawning 
mouth.  It  gives  forth  the  most  unearthly  sound 
that  ever  cleft  a  glorious  morning  in  twain.  As 
it  bellows  out,  the  torn  and  tattered  sound  as  it 
reverberates  from  headland  to  headland  is  like 
unto  a  thousand  catamounts,  and  ten  thousand 
Indian  devils.  When  this  syren  was  first  import- 
ed from  xifrica  it  frightened  half  the  population 
of  Vermont  out  of  several  years  of  growth.  Now 
the  Pilot  has  got  the  blowing  of  the  syren  down 
to  a  science,  as  the  Doctor  said,  and  when  s«ic 
toys  with  the  rope  the  demons  are  let  loose,  un- 
muzzled. 

Meanwhile  the  draw  swung  open.  It  is  a  fear- 
ful and  wonderful  draw.  When  it  opens  it  looks 
as  though  half  the  bridge  had  broken  away  and 
started  to  float  off  up  the  lake.  It  is  moved  by 
means  of  engines  and  huge  chains  that  hang  sus- 
pended beneath  the  surface  of  the  water,  their 
weight  causing  them  to  sag  sufficiently  to  allow 
the  keels  of  boats  and  steamers  to  pass  over 
them.  The  opening  of  the  draw  was  wide  enough 
for  a  cathedral  to  be  towed  through,  and  the  Ref- 
uge glided  through  as  though  she  owned  the  lake, 
her  two  yacht  club  flags  fluttering  from  the  peaks, 
fore  and  aft. 

Meanwhile  the  Doctor  was  by  the  engine,  Don 
stood  the  port  watch,  while  all  the  rest,  myself 


nu 


/■••■^'' 


^wi1:';i 


II'  '-''Jfl 


22 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY   OF    CHAZY. 


excepted,  gathered  in  the  saloon  aft  and  were 
comfortable  and  happy.  The  "Twins"  made  a 
lovely  picture  as  they  reclined  in  the  stern  sheets. 

As  for  me,  I  was  perfectly  happy  up  forward 
with  the  Pilot,  who  pointed  out  to  me  all  the 
points  of  Interest  on  either  shore.  Among  the 
most  interesting  objects  was  the  ruin  of  old  Fort 
Ticonderoga,  which  stands  on  a  bold,  high  head- 
land not  far  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek  wh'ch 
forms  the  outlet  for  the  waters  of  Lake  George 
into  Lake  Ghamplain. 

This  historic  fortification  was  erected  by  Baron 
Dieskau,  the  French  general,  in  1755,  and  it  was 
somewhat  enlarged  in  1757,  when  it  was  occupied 
by  Montcalm,  who  marched  thence  to  attack  Fort 
William  Henry.  Fort  Ticonderoga  and  the  immed- 
iate vicinity  was  the  scene  of  many  bloody  con- 
flicts between  the  French  and  English.  On  the 
morning  of  the  10th  of  May,  1775,  the  fort  was 
surrendered  to  Gen.  Ethan  Allen,  who  demanded 
its  capitulation  "In  the  name  of  the  Great  Je- 
hovah and  the  Oontinental  Congress."  In  1777 
General  Burgoyne,  with  7,500  British  soldiers, 
laid  siege  to  the  fort,  from  Mt  Defiance,  from 
which  latter  point  they  were  able  to  drop  shot 
over  into  the  fort,  and  it  was  abandoned  on  the 
night  of  July  4th.  After  the  capture  of  Burgoyne 
at  Saratoga  the  British  retired  into  Canada,  but 
in  1780  the  old  fort  was  again  occupied  by  the 
troops  under  General  Haldiman.  Referring  to  the 
ruins  of  today— the  old  battery  on  the  bluff  is  said 
to  have  been  the  original  Carillon.  Back  on  the 
higher  ground  are  the  barrack  walls,  trenches  and 
bastions.    On  the  west,  beyond  the  outlet  of  La&» 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


George,  is  Mt.  Defiance.  Opposite  the  fort  at  the 
southeast,  the  lake  is  narrowed  down  by  Mt.  In- 
dependence, which  was  aldo  fortified  while  St, 
Glair  held  command  during  the  siege.  The  lake 
here  turns  toward  the  north,  the  water  washir.g 
three  sides  of  the  promontory.  Across  the  locust- 
covered  flat,  just  north  of  the  ruins,  from  a  poiat 
near  the  draw-bridge,  lay  Ethan  Allen's  route  in 
1775. 

Whitehall,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  lake,  our 
destination,  is  about  twenty-three  miles  south  of 
Fort  Ticonderoga.  Under  the  skilful  guidance  ot 
the  Pilot,  with  the  Doctor  in  the  engine  room,  and 
with  Don  keeping  a  sharp  lookout  ahead  and  on 
either  side,  the  swift  craft  flew  tbroueh  the  water, 
threaded  narrow  channels,  along  lovely  shores, 
past  bold  headlands  and  high  cliff s— a  perfect  pan- 
orama of  lovely  scenery.  On  the  west  shore  is  the 
State  of  New  York  with  the  Adirondacks  looming 
up  in  the  distance,  while  on  the  east  shore  is  Ver- 
mont. We  frequently  passed  lighthouses  and  bea- 
cons, every  one  of  which  was  familiar  to  the  Pilot, 
who,  while  she  manipulated  the  wheel,  acted  tha 
part  of  a  charming  hostess.  Sounds  of  frequent 
disturbances,  interspersed  with  singing  and  laugh- 
ter, came  from  the  cabin  aft;  but  as  for  the  Pilot 
and  myself  we  were  simply  glad  that  the  rest  of 
the  party  were  enjoying  themselves. 

We  met  several  small  steam  launches  that,  an 
they  passed,  were  tossed  like  corks  on  the  sea 
kicked  up  by  the  Refuge  as  she  bowled  along,  as 
craft  of  lesser  size  are  rocked  by  a  passing  Ouu- 
arder.  Each  craft  was  saluted  with  the  syren,  to 
which  Don  invariably  contributed  his  stentorian 
voice. 


24 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


Meantime  the  stores  were  broken  out  and  we 
enjoyed  a  bountiful  repast;  and  as  the  eatables 
rapidly  disappeared  the  Doctor  couldn't  seem  to 
understand  why  the  yacht  was  not  thereby  light- 
ened, why  she  did  not  draw  less  water  just  as  she 
did  when  the  coal  was  used  from  the  bunkers. 
But  I  tnist  that  he  will  fathom  the  mystery,  clear- 
ly, and  to  his  own  satisfaction. 

As  we  neared  Whitehall,  we  met  a  long  line  of 
canal  boats,  clumsy  looking  craft,  tied  two 
abreast.  In  tow  of  a  tug-boat  with  a  funnel  as 
high  as  the  chimney  of  a  sawmill.  Curious  look- 
ing, unkempt,  unshaven  characters,  one  sees  on 
the  canal  boats,  and  the  women  who  live  thereon 
are  not  exactly  examples  of  feminine  loveliness. 
Yet  who  knows  but  what  some  of  them  may  have 
seen  better  days? 

For  much  of  the  way  below  Larrabee's  the  lake 
is  very  narrow,  and  winds  along  like  a  river. 
Rounding  a  point  we  steamed  up  to  a  wharf  at 
Whitehall,  and  disembarked.  The  entire  com- 
pany, the  Pilot  excepted,  went  up  town  with  vari- 
ous objects  in  view.  The  .Junior  Partner  and  I 
looked  about  for  objects  of  interest,  which  we 
found  principally  In  the  Ghamplain  Canal,  wh'ch 
leaves  the  lake  at  this  point  and  furnishes  direct 
water  communication  with  New  York,  by  way  of 
West  Troy  and  the  Hudson  river.  We  watched 
the  interesting  process  of  locking  the  boats  from 
the  level  of  the  lake  up  to  the  highest  level  of  tiic 
canal,  and  it  is  wonderfui  how  quickly  a  heavily 
loaded  boat  is  lifted  many  feet.  The  process  Is 
the  same  as  on  the  Erie  Canal,  but  the  locks  here 
are  much  smaller. 


t! 


■i 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


26 


Just  as  the  Junior  Partner  and  I  reached  the 
Refuge  on  our  return,  a  drenching  shower  of  rain 
came  on,  and  I  made  haste  to  lower  the  curtains. 
One  by  one,  as  the  rain  ceased,  the  other  mem- 
bers of  the  party  came  aboard,  including  the  Doc- 
tor, who  carried  a  great  coil  of  rope.  In  view  of 
the  fact  that  I  had  never  noticed  anything  espe- 
cially peculiar  about  the  Doctor,  and  because 
there  was  a  determined  look  in  his  eye  as  he  ap- 
proached, I  was  not  a  little  startled  for  a  mo- 
ment; but  we  soon  learned  that  the  rope  was  in- 
tended for  the  anchop. 

Steam  was  soon  up,  the  lines  were  cast  o<C 
while  I  hoisted  the  flag  to  the  fore-peak,  and  th<s 
Refuge  swung  around  and  we  started  on  the  re- 
turn trip. 

Whitehall  is  a  quaint  looking  town.  It  lies  pan- 
ly  in  a  valley  and  partly  sprawled  over  a  rugged 
mountain  side  in  a  succession  of  terraces.  It  was 
formerly  called  by  the  beautiful  and  euphonious 
name  of  Skeensborough,  after  Col.  Philip  Skeen, 
who  accompanied  Abercrombie  In  1758.  Viewed 
from  a  little  distance,  it  looks  like  a  deserted 
cave-dwellers*  village. 

The  sun  sank  in  a  blaze  of  glory  beyond  the  Ad- 
irondacks  as  we  steamed  northward,  bathing  the 
verdure  in  purple  radiance,  and  crowning  the  loft 
iest  peaks  with  diadems  of  gold.  As  the  Tast 
slanting  beams  fell  upon  the  water  the  lake  was 
transformed  Into  a  winding  ribbon  of  glorinas, 
luminous  colors,  and  the  stretches  of  water-grass 
along  the  shores  appeared  like  purple  mists  icst- 
ing  upon  the  divine  coloring. 

Now  the  keepers  of  the  lights  were  seen  goipg 


il 


ill 


26  MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF  CHAZY. 

out  to  them,  ascending  the  towers  to  the  lanterns, 
and  lighting  the  lamps  for  the  guidance  of  lake 
navigators.  As  the  sun  settled  behind  the  moun- 
tains and  the  twilight  deepened  the  shores 
seemed  enveloped  in  a  blue  mist,  which  was  fol- 
lowed by  darkness. 

We  made  one  brief  landing,  when  all  baud? 
were  glad  to  go  ashore  near  a  pretty  abode  on  the 

steep  bluff. 

From  here  on  the  shores  were  only  dimly  vis- 
ible. Lights  here  and  there  gleamed  among  the 
trees,  and  the  stars  shone  clear,  overhead.  There 
was  no  sound,  save  an  indistinct  murmuring 
from  the  shore — save  that  caused  by  the  quick 
pulsation  of  the  engine  and  the  gurgle  of  the 
water  at  the  bows  and  stern. 

rhe  other  members  of  the  party,  aft,  sang  a 
few  snatches  of  song,  and  the  Twins  were  still 
good-natured.  The  Doctor  joined  in  some  of  the 
songs,  and,  from  my  position  in  the  bow  beside 
the  Pilot  I  could  now  and  then  see  his  face  when 
the  furnace  door  was  swung  open  to  receive  shov- 
elfuls of  coal. 

The  Pilot  guided  the  yacht  by  means  of  points, 
headlands,  bends  and  the  lights  along  tlit  way, 
until,  suddenly,  she  put  the  helm  hard  over  and 
steered  to  what  seemed  to  me  to  be  an  Impene- 
trable wall  of  blackness;  but  in  a  few  minutes 
there  appeared  a  rift  in  the  mountains,  we  glided 
through  the  "Narrows"  and  ahead  appeared  the 
lights  on  the  draw-bridge,  which  swung  open  in 
response  to  the  whistle.  Then  she  steered  for  the 
lights  on  shore  at  Larrabee's,  and  then  the  engine 
was  slowed  down  that  the  mooring  buoy  might  be 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


27 


picked  up.  The  Doctor  ordered  me  to  look  ahead 
for  It,  and  I  soon  saw  It;  but  the  yacht  swung 
away  and  I  was  unable  to  make  fast  to  it.  So 
the  gentleman  aft  who  had  had  things  his  3wn 
way  all  day,  got  into  the  tender,  came  around  to 
the  bows,  where  I  went  over  the  side  into  the  ten- 
der with  the  line,  and  as  he  pulled  toward  the 
buoy  with  the  Refuge  in  tow,  I  reached  the  Niot 
and  made  fast. 

Then  all  disembarked  and  were  rowed  ashorti. 
Jack,  meanwhile,  rambling  around  over  the  sur- 
face of  the  water,  like  a  sprite. 

It  was  ten  o'clock,  but  thanks  to  the  good  sonl 
who  remained  at  the  house  and  had  been  watcii- 
ing  for  us,  a  dainty  supper  was  ready  when  w© 
arrived. 

I  returned  to  the  Refuge  with  the  Doctor  to  as- 
sist him  in  fastening  down  the  curtains,  making 
the  yacht  snug.  Later  I  went  up  across  the  field 
with  Jack,  for  some  milk,  when  she  nearly  ran 
me  off  a  trestle  which  spanned  a  ditch  across  the 
path.  After  that  we  sat  on  the  veranda  and  en- 
joyed the  cool  air,  the  ladies  talked  and  the  Doc- 
tor and  I  smoked. 

All  of  a  sudden  a  strange  uncanny  light  of 
strange  effulgence  seemed  to  envelop  us. 

"In  the  name  of  the  spirit  of  the  Great  Ethun 
Allen,  Doctor,"  said  I,  "what's  that?" 

"Don't  know,**  replied  the  Doctor. 

"Daylight!"  gasped  the  Pilot. 

"Take  your  word  for  it,  Pilot,"  said  I,  "never 
saw  anything  like  it  before." 

So  we  each  and  severally  said  "good  moro'ug 
and  au  revoir,"  and  retired,  temporarily. 


',  "-IV.    ' 


il  -' 


Hi 


I 


M 


^ 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  dew  had  all  evaporated  from  the  Doctor's 
haystack  when  we  assembled  around  the  break- 
fast table  later  that  morning;  and  soon  after  the 
morning  meal  we  went  up  to  the  big  house  on  the 
hill,  whither  we  had  been  invited  by  our  compag- 
nons  de  voyage  of  yesterday.  What  a  fine  uiau- 
sion  It  was,  with  its  broad,  vine-covered  veranda. 
We  ascended  to  the  roof  from  which  there  waa  a 
superb  view  of  the  surrounding  country  and  the 
lake.  Then,  In  the  spacious  drawing-room  there 
was  music,  piano  and  vocal,  by  the  young  ladies 
and  the  Doctor— a  beautiful  and  fitting  finale  to 
our  pleasant  associations. 

Even  Don  entered  into  the  spirit  of  the  occa- 
sion, but  the  Doctor  told  him  that  his  voice  was 
too  inflexible,  and  chased  the  old  dog  out. 

Never  was  there  a  pleasanter  hour  spent,  <ind 
after  taking  photographs  of  the  party  grouped  on 
the  steps  of  the  veranda,  we  said  "good-by,"  aud 
returned  to  "The  Locusts." 

The  time  of  parting  had  come,  and  we  watched 
for  the  smoke  of  the  big  steamer  "Ve:*mont"  to 
appear  around  the  point  whereon  stands  the  ruin 
of  the  old  fort— with  regret,  for  we  must  soon 
turn  our  backs  to  that  charming  abode  by  the  lake 
shore,  with  its  gracious  hospitality;  but  we  had 
comfort  in  the  thought  that  we  should  carry  away 
memories  such  as  endure  forever. 

While  we   waited   we   secured   a   few   photo- 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


29 


of  the  ceca- 
ls voice  was 
out. 

r  spent,  <ind 
T  grouped  on 
ood-by,"  and 


graph,  one  of  the  Refuge  as  she  lay  at  her  moor 
Ing;  and  then  the  great  Vermont  came  thunder- 
ing up  through  the  draw.  We  knew  that  It  would 
be  folly  to  try  to  ride  to  the  foot  of  the  lake — 
down  north— on  our  wheels,  hence  our  determina- 
tion to  embark  on  the  steamer. 

Jack  and  the  Doctor  accompanied  us  to  the 
landing,  and  as  we  went  aboai-d  the  Doctor  intro- 
duced us  to  Captain  Arbuckle,  who  greeted  us 
kindly;  and  as  we  swung  away  we  waved  to  those 
on  the  w^harf,  and  to  the  Pilot  who  remained  on 
the  veranda;  and  we  love  to  think  of  that  last 
glance,  as  the  steamer  circled  out  into  the  broad 
lake,  which  revealed  her  sitting  so  patiently  be- 
neath the  locust  trees,  with  the  flowers  on  the 
lawn  in  front,  waving  her  handkerchief  to  us  in 
token  of— not  farewell,  nor  yet  good-bye— but  only 
an  revoir. 

Lake  Champlain  was  known  to  the  Indians  as 
Cani-adere-quarante,  meaning  "this  is  the  gate  of 
the  country."  Samuel  de  Champlain  wad  the  first 
white  man  to  see  the  lake,  when,  in  1609,  \\^  ac- 
companied a  party  of  Canadians  on  a  huntlugr  ex- 
pedition toward  the  south.  Subsequently  tb»  lake 
was  named  for  Champlain,  thougk  it  we»  for  a 
time,  known  as  Mere  les  Iroquois.  On  the  east 
Bide  of  the  lake  is  Vermont,  sweeping  away  In  a 
broad  plain  which  gradually  ascends  to  the  ridge 
of  the  Green  Mountains.  Along  the  southern  and 
central  portions  of  the  lake  the  rocky  western 
shores  come  abruptly  to  the  water's  edge.  West- 
ward, rising  ridge  on  ridge,  the  highest,  misty  in 
the  distance,  are  the  Adirondack  Mountains.  Fur- 
ther north  the  mountains  fall  away  and  a  level 


^'"> 


1; 


trj 


i  A 


: 


80 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF   CHAZY. 


country  Is  presented.  The  lake's  greatest  width, 
which  is  near  the  outlet  of  Ausable  river,  Is 
twelve  and  one-half  miles.  Measuring  north, 
from  Whitehall  into  Missisquoi  Bay,  whi»;j  ex- 
tends into  Canada,  its  extreme  length  is  D  8  miles. 
Its  elevation  above  tide-water  is  ninety-nine  feet 
and  its  greatest  depth  is  399  feet. 

The  steamer  Vermont  is  a  magnificent    craft 
splendidly  appointed,  with  spacious  saloons  ard 
promenades,    luxurious    cabins    and    handsotno 
staterooms;  and  a  voyage  on  bohid  the  great  boat 
on  this  broad  inland  sea  is  one  of  the  finest  ex- 
periences the  world  can  afford.    The  Vermont  hoti 
two   towering  smokestacks,   and   her  two  great 
boilers  are  located  on  the  main  deck,  one  on  tb» 
port  and  one  on  the  starboard  side— amidships*, 
and  she  burns  pea  coal.    The  engine  is  a  ponder 
ous  affair,  and,  through  the  courtesy  of  the  chief 
engineer,  we  made  a  thorough  inspection  of  iu 
The  passengers  on  the  Vermont  are  pleasantly  Im- 
pressed with  the  freedom  which  they  enjoy,  and 
with  the  unobtrusiveness,  yet  easy  courtesy  of 
every  person  employed  on  the  boat.    When  I  re- 
marked this  to  Capt.  Arbuckle,  in  the  course  of 
a  chat  with  him,  he  said:    "I  will  have  it  no  other 
way  on  a  boat  which  I  command.    I  want  passen* 
gers  to  feel  at  home;"  and  Capt.  Arbuckle  means 
what  ne  says,  and  if  I  am  a  judge  of  character, 
h»  never  says  anything  which  he  does  not  mean. 
We  took  things  very  easily,  enjoying  the  superb 
scenery  in  either  shore,  especially  the  bold,  beet- 
ling cliffs  on  the  New  York  side.    The  steamer 
made  various  landings  during  the  afternoon.    SiZ 
miles  north  of  Crown  Point  are  the  ruins  of  tb» 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY   OF  CHAZY. 


81 


fort,  famous  In  Revolutionary  history.  The  Take 
Is  here  narrowed  down  by  the  approach  of  land 
extending  from  the  west,  on  which  the  ruins 
stand.  Chimney  Point  approaches  from  the  east 
side.  Beyond  the  lighthouse,  at  the  narroweet 
place  in  the  passage,  are  the  scarcely  visible  mini 
of  Fort  St.  Frederick,  built  by  the  French  in  1731. 
Grown  Point  Fort,  standing  over  toward  the  west, 
was  commenced  by  Amherst  in  1769.  The  exten- 
fiive  earthworks,  and  the  walls  of  the  barracka, 
are  still  In  a  good  state  of  preservation.  Port 
Henry,  two  miles  to  the  northwest,  is  exceedingly 
picturesque.  Calamity  Point  is  about  two  miles 
north  of  Westport;  and  here  the  steamer  Jham- 
plain  was  wrecked  in  1876,  while  running  north  on 
her  regular  night  trip.  Spilt  Rock  Mountain  ox- 
tends  along  the  west  shore,  terminating  in  a  sharp 
point  eight  miles  north  of  Westport.  In  the  ul- 
certain  record  of  old  Indian  treaties,  it  is  claimed 
that  this  rock  marked  the  boundary  line  between 
the  tribes  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  those  of  the 
Mohawk  Valley.  Otter  Creek  enters  the  lake  from 
the  east,  a  little  over  five  miles  north  of  Wost- 
port.  It  Is  navigable  to  Vergennes.  Fort  Cassfn 
stood  at  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek,  and  bits  of  the 
ruins  are  now  visible.  In  this  creek  a  portion  of 
the  American  squadron  was  fitted  out  In  1812. 
which,  under  Commodore  McDonough,  defeated 
the  British  fleet  under  Commodore  Downle,  In 
September  of  that  year.  Four  miles  north  of  Es- 
sex Landing  Is  the  mouth  of  Boquet  river,  navi- 
gable about  a  mile,  which  was  the  rendezvous  ol 
Burgoyne*s  flotilla  In  the  advance  on  Ticonderogiw 
in  1777;  and  in  1812  it  was  entered  by  the  British 


il'.hty'' 


89 


MONTRKAL    UY    WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


vessels  lu  the  attack  upon  Wlllsborough.  Near 
the  middle  of  the  lake  near  Wlllsborough  Point 
are  the  islaiuls  known  as  "The  Four  Brothers." 
where  occurred  the  running  engagement  between 
Benedict  Arnold  and  Captain  Prlngle,  In  1776.  In 
which  the  British  were  the  victors. 

After  leaving  Essex  Landing  the  boat  pasadd 
out  Into  the  broad  lake,  gradually  nearing  the 
Vermont  shore  and  approaching  Burlington.  In- 
land are  the  two  highest  peaks  of  the  Green 
Mountains,  Mt.  Mansfield,  4,360  feet  high,  and 
Oamel's  Hump,  known  to  the  French  as  Leon  Con 
chant.  The  longest  stop  was  made  at  Burlington, 
which  was  Interesting  to  us  principally  because 
It  Is  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  city  In  Vermoat. 
and  because  that,  near  here,  Is  located  Fort  Btha»» 
Allen,  named  after  the  hero  of  Ticondei oga.  Col. 
Chester  Point  reaches  half-way  across  the  lake 
north  of  Burlington,  and  further  west  is  Oolches- 
ter  Beef,  the  outermost  rock  of  which  is  surmount- 
ed  by  a  tower  showing  a  red  light  We  called  at 
Port  Kent,  ten  miles  north  of  Burlington,  and 
then,  six  miles  beyond  passed  Valcour  Island, 
near  which  occurred  the  first  naval  battle  of  the 
Revolution,  October  11,  1776.  The  hotel  where 
President  McKinley  stayed  during  his  sojourn  at 
Lake  Champlain,  stands  on  a  bold  headland 
which  puts  out  from  the  west  shore  Just  north  of 
Valcour  Island. 

While  in  what  Is  known  as  the  "brood  lake,*' 
we  had  one  of  the  experiences  of  an  ocean  voyage 
—for  the  waters  of  the  great  lake  stretched  away 
to  the  horizon,  and  no  land  was  in  sight  ahead. 
As  we  neared  Plattsburg,  our  destination,  we  rin 


igb.  Nmf 
*ough  Polat 

Brothers," 
mt  between 

In  1776.  in 

boat  passtMl 
nenring  the 
Ington.    la- 
the Green 
;   high,  and 
IS  Leon  Goa 
:  Burlington, 
illy  becaase 
in  Vermont. 
1  Fort  Btha»» 
ieioga.    Col. 
)S8  the  lake 
t  is  Oolches- 
is  surmount* 
We  called  at 
lington,  and 
cour  Island, 
battle  of  the 
hotel  where 
Is  sojourn  at 
Id    headland 
lust  north  of 

brood  lake,*' 
)cean  yoyage 
etched  4way 
sight  ahead, 
itlon,  we  rin 


iij 


U|i;  '•■i\ 


1/:  n 


i.!.i>a 


ui 


li4 


'.;!■;: 


m 


...    i.r,,^ 

'.A 


( 

1 

; 

i 

1 

< 

(      , 

^ 

- 

!| 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF  CHAZY. 


33 


into  a  heavy  squall,  which  raised  a  siasable  sea 
and  covered  the  lake  with  white-caps.  For  a  few 
minutes  there  was  a  pouring  rain,  and  then,  nn 
the  squall  passed  over,  a  gorgeous  rainbow  hang 
over  the  Vermont  shore. 

Passing  In  by  the  break- water  with  its  Ilglit* 
house,  we  landed  at  Plattsburg,  and  dlsembarkr^d 
with  our  wheels,  going  directly  to  our  hot'il. 
Plattsburg  Is  In  New  York.  The  first  settler  In 
this  region  was  Count  Gharles  de  Fredenburgh,  a 
captain  of  the  British  army.  After  the  Revolii 
tlon  the  land  was  granted.  In  1784,  to  Zephanlah 
Piatt  and  others,  and  Incorporated  Into  the  town 
of  Plattsburg  In  1785.  Here,  In  the  lake,  occurred 
I  a  great  naval  battle,  In  1814. 

That  evening,  after  supper,  we  walked  aronnd 
I  the  old  town,  and  presented  letters  of  introductloii 
jtbat  the  Doctor  and  Jack  had  kindly  given  nt. 
I  and  which  were  of  great  service  to  ns  in  connec- 
{tlon  with  our  trip  further  north;  and  we  enjoyed 
the  superb  twilight  as  we  returned  to  the  hoteL 

In  the  morning  we  mounted  our  wheels  nn^ 
jrode  out  to  the  barracks,  a  regular  United  States 
Army  post,  about  a  mile  south  of  Plattsburg. 
where  there  are  some  fine  buildings  and  exten 
sive,  well-kept  grounds.  At  the  time  of  our  visit 
troops  were  being  recruited  there  for  service  in 
[the  Philippines. 

Returning  to  the  hotel,    the  luggage  was  fas- 
Itened    upon    the    bicycles,    and    mounting,    we 
wheeled  away  toward  the  Canadian  frontier. 


Irl 


i.J 


ii 


'. 


ill 

>   t 


!(:, 


i     5 


:'!      ;iir 


I. 


OHAPTEK  V. 

We  had,  the  evening  before,  made  inquiries  con- 1 
cerning  the  best  route  to  talse  from  Plattsburg  to 
Rouse's  Point,  and,  in  each  instance,  we  were  ad- 
vised, even  urged  to  go  by  way  of  Chazy.    The 
gentleman  to  whom  we  had  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion said,  "You  had  better  go  by  way  of  Chazy." 
A  wheelman  whom  we  accosted  replied,  "Be  sure 
to  go  by  way  of  Chazy,  for  you  will  find  the  best  ] 
road  that  way";  and  so,  all  the  way,  the  breeze j 
which  blew  from  the  northwest  seemed  to  say.j 
"Chazy,  Chazy";  and  the  swaying  boughs  of  the 
trees  sighed,   "Cha-zy,   Ch-a-z-y."     We  could  not 
miss  the  road,  for  nearly  every  sign  board  read— | 
"To  Chazy." 

For  the  first  two  miles  or  so  out  of  Plattsburg  | 
we  went  over  a  fine  macadam  road,  which  afford- 
ed us  some  charming  glimpses  of  the  lake;  then,! 
turning  due  north  we  found  a  good  loam  road,| 
which  allowed  us  to  wheel  at  a  good  pace,  and  not- 
withstanding that  there  was  a  strong  wind  blow- 1 
ing,  it  came  from  a  point  nearly  at  i^l.^ht  angles  to 
our  course,  so  it  did  not  materially  impede  our| 
progress. 

The  country  was  not  particularly  interesting,  be-  i 
ing  rolling,  not  very  profusely  wooded  and  fairly  | 
well  cultivated. 

At  one  house  we  stopped  for  water,  and  there 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


35 


ater,  and  there 


being  none  In  the  house  I  volunteered  to  take  the 
tin  pail  and  get  some  from  the  well.  While  clam- 
bering over  a  pole  fence  with  the  pail  of  water* 
one  of  the  poles  slipped  and  down  I  went,  on  top 
of  the  pail.  The  result  was  that  I  was  pretty  well 
soalied,  the  contents  of  my  pocliets  were  strewn 
around  and  the  pail  was  badly  bent. 

We  found  wild  raspberries  plentiful  and  with 
fine,  cool,  bracing  air  we  enjoyed  the  run  to  the 
utmost.  Many  of  the  houses  here  are  built  of 
logs,  whitewas/hed  on  the  outside.  At  a  little  vil- 
lage late  in  the  forenoon,  we  stopped  for  refresh- 
ments and  to  renew  my  supply  of  smoliing  tobac- 
co. The  proprietor  of  the  Inn  congratulated  us 
on  stopping  there,  for  he  said  we  would  not  be 
able  to  procure  such  refreshments  as  he  could  fur- 
nish us  with,  at  Ohazy. 

At  noon  we  made  a  short  stop  at  Chazy,  which 
would  be  an  excellent  location  for  a  sanitarium 
for  people  afflicted  with  nervousness.  There  be- 
ing no  hotel  visible  there,  we  ran  on  until  we  came 
to  a  farm-house  which  looked  as  though  there 
might  be  some  hospitality  to  spare,  and  we  were 
not  mistaken,  for  the  woman  of  the  house  was 
most  obliging. 

We  were  anxious  to  reach  Rouse's  Point  as  early 
as  possible,  for  we  expected  to  find  there  a  Cana- 
dian customs  agent  to  clear  our  wTieels.  It  is  the 
last  place  on  the  American  side,  before  crossing 
the  frontier,  and  an  important  United  States  cus- 
toms post.  Five  miles  from  the  frontier,  at  inter- 
vals of  a  mile,  we  passed  posts  which  gave  the 
distance  to  the  line,  viz.,  "5  miles  to  B.  Line,"  or 
British  line. 


-f^ 


m 


86 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF    CHAZY. 


Rouse's  Point  is  a  place  of  considerable  commer- 
cial importance,  and  the  most  prominent  port  of 
entry  on  the  frontier,  and  five  railroads  centre 
there.  It  is  at  the  very  end  of  the  lake,  and  close 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Richelieu  river,  which  flows 
into  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  short  distance  north  is 
Fort  Montgomery,  an  Interesting  ruin  belonging  to 
the  United  States. 

Reaching  Rouse's  Point,  we  easily  found  the 
United  States  custom  house,  where  we  were  cour- 
teously received  by  the  officers,  wlio  Informed  us 
that  there  were  no  formalities  to  go  through  so 
far  as  the  American  authorities  were  concerned, 
also  that  the  Canadian  customs  agent  was  away. 
They  advised  us  to  go  on  to  the  village  of  Lacolle, 
seven  miles  distant,  on  the  Canadian  side,  where 
we  would  find  a  Canadian  official.  So,  after  get- 
ting directions,  we  mounted  and  went  on.  At  the 
edge  of  the  village  we  took  closer  chances  at 
crossing  the  railroad  track  In  front  of  an  ap- 
proaching train  than  we  shall,  either  of  us,  care 
to  take  again. 

We  soon  had  to  dismount,  for  we  came  upon  a 
clay  road  wliich  had  been  rendered  entirely  un- 
rideable  by  recent  rains;  but  we  were  not  so  crest- 
fallen over  It  as  we  should  have  been  had  we  not 
been  so  near  to  crossing  the  frontier,  which  was 
an  interesting  event  to  us.  Presently  we  reached 
a  junction  of  the  road  with  another  leading  to  the 
east,  wTiere  stood  an  iron  post,  marking  the  boun- 
dary between  the  United  States  and  Canada.  This, 
we  decided,  would  be  a  proi>er  object  to  photo- 
graph; so  T  unshipped  the  camera,  stood  the 
wheels  up  against  the  p^st,  and  while  the  Junior 


>le  commer- 
f6nt  port  of 
)ads  centre 
and  close 
'■hich  flows 
ice  north  is 
>elouging  to 

found  the 

i  were  cour- 

[nformed  us 

through  so 

i  concerned, 

;  was  away. 

B  of  Lacolle, 

side,  where 

o,  after  get- 

:  on.    At  the 

chances  at 

;  of  an  ap- 

of  us,  care 

ame  upon  a 
entirely  un- 
not  so  crest- 
had  we  not 
which  was 
we  reached 
iding  to  the 
ig  the  boun- 
inada.  This, 
2t  to  photo- 
stood    the 
the  Junior 


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• 

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MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF   CHAZY. 


87 


Partner  was  taking  her  place  she  caught  ber  foot 
in  the  Canada  line  and  nearly  fell  down.  Step- 
ping over  to  the  American  side  I  leveled  the  cam- 
era at  Her  Majesty's  Dominion  and— fired.  The 
reason  why  I  stood  on  the  American  side  was  that 
I  feared  that  some  wandering  Oanadian  mlgbt 
mistake  me  for  another  Fenian  Biald,  for  they 
have  not  recovered  from  their  scare  of  thirty 
years  ago,  or  so,  yet. 

After  taking  the  photograph  I  copied  the  inscrip- 
tions from  the  four  sides  of  the  Iron  post:— 

North  side:— ^'Lt-JOol.  I.  B.  B.  Bstcourt,  H.  B. 
M.  Com'ss'r." 
Bast  side:— 'Treaty  of  Washington." 
South  side:— "Albert  Smith,  U.  S.  Oom'ss'r." 
West  side:— "Boundary,  Aug*st  9th,  1842." 
Continuing   our  leisurely   walk,   we   wondered 
how  many  miles  we  were  to  have  of  it. 

The  moment  we  crossed  into  Canada  everything 
was  changed.  We  were  on  a  vast,  fertile,  thor- 
ouglily  cultivated  plain,  settled  by  French  farm- 
ers. The  laiid  Is  divided  into  small  farms,  bound- 
ed by  the  parishes.  Just  as  it  was  laid  out  when 
the  French  first  settled  In  Canada.  These  farms 
are  small,  of  but  few  acres  in  extent,  and  in  the 
form  of  perfect  rectangles.  They  are  separated 
from  one  another  by  rail  fences  laid  in  herring- 
bone fashion,  and  so  numerous  are  they  that,  look- 
ing across  the  level  country,  at  a  distance  it  looks 
as  though  covered  with  piles  of  wood.  The  roads 
follow  these  boundaries,  turning  at  ri'^t  angles, 
like  stairs— up  Into  Canada.  We  were  interested 
in  observing  the  crops,  and  we  saw  but  little  corn, 
for  corn  Is  not  successfully  grown  so  far  north. 


1<  '.i.    ' 


hi 


88 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF    CHAZY. 


But  Instead  of  each  landholder  having  a  large 
farm  and  half-tilling  a  small  part  of  it,  as  in  New 
England,  each  had  Just  what  he  could  thoroughly 
till;  and  these  French  farmers  are  thrifty,  as  their 
buildings  and  surroundings  indicate. 

After  a  few  miles  of  walking,  to  our  great  Joy 
we  reached  a  loam  road  and  mounting  we  wheeled 
rapidly  along  througli  the  beautiful  country  until 
we  came  in  sight  of  Lacolle.  We  dismounted  at 
a  station  on  the  Canada  Atlantic  Railway  to  make 
inquiries  of  the  agent,  and  while  talking  with  him 
a  portly,  benevolent  looking  man  strolled  in  and 
stood  near.  As  I  finished  conversing  with  the 
agent,  he  faced  me  and  said:  "Have  you  a  permit 
to  travel  in  this  country?" 

I  replied  that  we  were,  as  yet,  liable  to  be 
grabbed  up  almost  anywhere,  but  that  we  were 
about  looking  for  a  customs  oflScer. 

"I  am  the  customs  oflScer,"  said  lie,  in  an  im- 
pressive manner. 

"You  are  the  gentleman  whom  we  have  sought 
to  seek,"  said  I. 

"You  haf  to  hunt  for  me,  not  I  for  you,"  said 
he. 

"That's  why  we  have  invaded  Lacolle,"  I  as- 
sured him. 

His  office  was  near  by,  and  with  him  we  en- 
tered the  sacred  precincts  of  Her  Majesty's  guar- 
dian of  the  treasury— no,  Sir  Wilfred  Laurier's, 
for  Canada  is  Britii^h  by  courtesy  only,  through 
the  indulgence  of  the  Dominion. 

The  officer,  a  Frenchman,  was  very  courteous, 
and  the  necessary  papers  were  soon  filled  out  and 
handed  to  us,  we  surrendering  our  membership 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY   OF  CHAZY. 


&9 


tickets  In  the  League  of  American  Wheelmen  un- 
til the  wheels  were  returned  to  the  United  States 
—thereby  avoiding  the  payment  of  duty. 

I  mentioned  to  him  that  we  (had  a  camera,  but 
he  said  that  was  all  right;  and  thanking  him,  we 
mounted  and  rode  to  the  village;  but  as  for  that 
customs  officer,  there  was  no  doubt  in  our  minds 
but  that  he  saw  us  comhig  along  the  road  and 
strolled  out  to  see  who  we  were  and  what  we  pro- 
posed to  do. 

Our  minds  easier,  with  the  precious  documents 
in  our  innermost  pockets,  we  wlieoled  into  the  vil- 
lage. We  felt  the  need  of  something  to  eat.  The 
station  agent  told  us  there  were  two  hotels,  one 
kept  by  a  P'renchman  and  the  other  by  an  Irish- 
man who  married  a  French  woman.  As  the  pure 
French  hostelry  was  nearest,  we  stopped  there. 
A  frousy-headed  man  answered  our  knock,  and, 
after  allowing  that  he  could  get  us  some  tea,  he 
ushered  us  into  a  front  room.  There  was  a  piano 
there,  which  had  no  excuse  for  standing  alone, 
and  while  we  waited  I  played,  first  "Y|inkee  Doo- 
dle" and  then  "God  Save  the  Queen."  While  we 
sat  there  one  or  two  men  poked  their  heads  into 
the  door  and  looked  at  us,  and  then  an  old  woman, 
a  veritable  witch  in  appearance,  pushed  her  face 
in.  Several  times  she  did  it,  disappearing  as  soon 
as  we  looked  at  her. 

Finally  the  Apparition  appeared  at  another 
door,  and  this  time  I  looked  at  ber  and  made  the 
statement:— "Boo!"  ' 

The  face  disappeared  Instantly. 

And  still  we  waited.  At  last  becoming  Impa- 
tient, I  went  out  to  inquire  wlien  the  tea  would  be 


■m 


;'s; 


r'U 


iM 


m 


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/,« 


w 


V, 


40 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


i^ady.  I  found  a  man  In  the  bar-room,  and  asked 
him  about  it. 

He  was  very  short,  saying:  "I  don't  tlnk  you 
get  nothing  warm  here  today  I" 

So  I  went  back  to  the  front  room  and  reported 
to  the  Junior  Partner,  the  ultimate  outcome  being 
that  we  left  the  hotel,  mounted  our  wheels  and 
started  for  the  other  tavern.  There  (God  bless  the 
Irish)  we  found  a  more  hospitable  welcome;  and 
the  Hibernian  bonlf  ace,  and  the  French  lady  who 
assisted  him  in  dispensing  hospitality,  got  us  a 
nice  meal,  ham,  eggs,  bread,  berries,  cake,  tea  and 
plenty  of  Ice  water.  The  landlord  was  all  right, 
and  as  we  took  our  departure  he  gave  us  direc- 
tions regarding  the  road,  with  instructions  not  to 
disregard  them  for  anybody;  and  we  found  it  all 
to  be  as  he  said. 

We  found  a  good  road  and  a  pleasant  country  to 
ride  through.  But  another  adventure  was  in  store 
for  us.  In  front  of  a  house  we  saw  a  team  stand- 
ing, the  occupant  being  engaged  In  conversation 
with  a  woman.  Thinking  that  he  was  about  to 
turn  into  the  road,  as  we  passed  we  rang  our  bells, 
simply  to  warn  him  of  our  presence.  The  moment 
we  passed,  he  whipped  up  his  horse  and  came  on 
after  us,  sOiouting  wildly  some  words  that  we 
could  not  understand.  As  we  passed  a  man  who 
was  leaning  against  a  fence,  the  Junior  Partner 
asked  what  was  the  matter  with  the  man  in  the 
team.  He  replied  that  he  thought  he  wanted  us 
to  stop,  or  that  he  wanted  to  get  by.  Finally  the 
wild  Frenchman  In  the  wagon  got  sio  near  us, 
keeping  up  hij  -svild  shouting,  that  we  dismounted 
and  stepped  out  of  the  road.    When  we  did  so  he 


1,  and  asked 


I't  tlnk  you 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


41 


reined  up,  spoke  ft  sentence  or  two  rapidly,  of 
which  the  only  word  we  could  catch  was  "parlez!" 
Now  we  knew  that  that  meant  "speak";  but  as  we 
were  not  conscious  of  having  committed  any  of- 
fense we  did  not  trouble  ourselves  as  to  what  he 
wanted.  He  turned  about  and  we  remounted  and 
rode  on;  but  presently  we  lieard  ihlm  after  us 
again.  Fearing  that  he  would  run  me  down,  I 
again  dismounted,  and  as  he  passed  me,  as  closely 
as  he  dared,  he  glared  at  me  and  muttered 
"sacrel"  I  ought  to  have  told  him  to  "sacre  him- 
self," but  I  saw  that  he  had  been  drinking,  so  I 
held  my  peace  and  he  drove  on,  soon  turning  in  at 
a  farm,  and  we  saw  him  no  more.  We  subse- 
quently learned  that  It  Is  not  considered  courte- 
ous, In  that  country,  to  ring  the  bells  when  one 
wishes  to  pass,  but  to  speak.  So  he  probably 
wanted  to  know  why  we  did  not  speak— "parlez." 
A  mile  or  so  further  on  we  stopped  to  photo- 
graph a  French  farm-house.  The  houses  have  the 
walls  built  of  stone,  as  a  protection  against  the 
severe  Canadian  winters.  We  found  at  home  only 
a  lot  of  children,  In  charge  of  a  brig^ht  little  girl, 
whom  we  could  not  make  understand  what  we 
wanted.  She  thought  we  wl^ed  water  and 
brought  us  some,  very  warm  and  in  a  very  dirty 
vessel.  As  near  as  we  could  learn  her  mother  was 
at  work  somewhere  in  the  field.  We  succeeded  in 
posing  the  children  in  a  group  on  the  door-steps, 
and  after  "pressing  the  button,"  we  pushed  ahead 
at  a  rapid  rate  over  a  very  good  loam  road,  until 
near  sunset,  when  we  noticed  a  shower  coming 
rapidly  up.  This  set  us  to  thinking,  for  we  were 
now  not  far  from  Montreal  and  it  was  not  worth 


m 

■'I 


:* 


m 

m 

m 


li 


4S 


MONTREAL    BY   WAY   OF  ClIAZY. 


our  while  to  spend  another  nig'ht  on  the  road;  be- 
gides,  we  wished  to  reach  Montreal  that  evening. 
But  we  could  not  reach  It  awheel,  especially  in  a 
(Bhower.  So,  reaching  a  little  French  village  we 
dismounted  at  the  station— on  the  Grand  Trunk 
road—and  inquired  ahont  a  train.  The  agent  was 
a  Frenchman  who  sipolce  good  Englisih,  and  he 
was  very  courteous.  We  secured  our  tickets, 
checked  the  wheels,  and  while  we  waited  the 
agent  made  things  very  pleasant  for  us.  Here 
we  were  again  reminded  that  we  were  in  a  foreign 
land;  for  the  sign  over  the  railroad  crossing  read: 
— "Tra/erse  du  Chemin  de  Fer"  (Railway  Cross- 
ing). 

We  looked  about  the  quaint  little  village,  and 
watched  the  people,  all  conversing  in  French. 
There  was  a  curious  little  chapel  there,  whose  bell 
was  hung  in  a  framework  of  timbers,  beside  the 
door;  and  while  we  were  there  a  boy  came  and 
rung  It  as  though  a  conflagration  was  visiting 
the  town. 

Almost  the  first  Impression  w^hicti  comes  to  one 
the  most  forcibly,  on  entering  Upper  Canada,  is 
that  it  is  a  priest-ridden  land.  One  sees  priests 
trailing  around  everywhere,  and  in  the  country 
districts  they  are  the  only  ones  w^o  seem  to  live 
on  the  "fat  of  the  land."  There  Is  nothing  that 
ge'ts  by  them  in  the  way  of  the  enjoyments  and 
the  sweets  of  life,  I  imagine.  In  this  tiny  village, 
so  small  that  we  could  see,  from  the  station,  the 
country  all  around,  a  church  was  being  built  to 
cost  $25,000; 

Just  before  our  train  was  due  a  through  express 
came  In  sight,  and  the  agent  warned  everybody 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


48 


away  from  th«  edge  of  the  platform,  where  there 
was  danger  of  being  drawn  under  the  train  by  the 
draft  which  it  created.  He  knew  what  he  was 
talking  about,  too,  for  the  train  went  by  at  fifty 
miles  an  hour,  and  the  breeze  carried  with  it  wa« 
terrific. 

The  train  we  were  to  take  had  to  be  flagged,  and 
even  then  we  came  near  losing  It.  Either  the 
agent  replaced  the  signal  too  soon,  or  the  engineer 
did  not  see  it,  for  the  train  thundered  past  the 
station  at  full  speed.  Immediately  the  agent  start- 
ed running  up  the  platform  after  it,  gesticulating 
as  only  a  Frenchman  can,  and  somebody  on  the 
train  seeing  him,  and  knowing  a  mistake  had  been 
made,  stopped  the  train  and  it  backed  down  to 
the  station.  It  was  a  close  call  for  us,  and  we 
came  near  having  to  stop  at  the  village  all  night, 
which  prospect  did  not  please  us. 

So  we  flew  on  toward  Montreal,  with  the  light- 
ning playing  all  around  us.  On  the  train  we  met 
two  Americans,  a  gentleman  and  his  son  from 
South  Framlngham,  Massachusetts,  who  had  come 
up  on  their  wheels  as  far  as  Burlington,  but  flnd- 
Ing  the  roads  very  bad,  ihad  shipped  the  bicycles 
home. 

Soon  we  were  rumbling  over  the  great  Victoria 
Bridge  w'hich  spans  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  in  a 
few  moments  pulled  into  the  Bonaventure  sta- 
tion, Montreal,  where,  after  running  the  gauntlet 
of  the  pestiferous  hackmen,  worse  than  mosqui- 
toes, we  made  our  way  to  the  Savoy,  the  most  ex- 
clusive and  select  hotel  in  the  Canadian  metrop- 
olis. 


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m 


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'^  '  "vJ,, 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  first  thing  on  the  program  the  next  morn- 
ing, after  breakfast,  Tvas  to  secure  our  wheels  and 
get  the  baggage,  wlilch  I  had  ordered  shipped 
from  Burlington  in  bond,  released  from  the  cus< 
toms  authorities.  Obtaining  the  w<heels  was  an 
easy  matter  for  they  were  simply  checked  from  a 
station  in  Canadian  territory.  On  our  way  down 
to  the  railway  station  we  Inquired  of  a  policeman 
if  there  were  any  special  regulations  applied  to 
bicycle  riding  In  the  city,  'he  informing  us  that  It 
would  be  necessary  to  obtain  a  permit  at  police 
headquarters,  to  which  place  he  directed  us.  The 
red  tape  which  we  had  to  contend  with  wound 
several  times  around  and  through  the  corridors  of 
the  Hotel  de  Ville  (City  Hall),  and  finally  led  ua 
across  the  street  to  another  building  occupied  by 
city  offices.  Finding  the  right  place  at  last,  we 
were  told  by  the  officer  that  he  would  give  us 
jtermits  for  five  days,  free,  after  which  we  would 
be  required  to  procure  regular  licenses  at  a  cost 
of  one  dollar  each,  and  to  carry  tags  on  our 
wheels.  I  said  that  five  days  would  not  quite  cover 
it,  and  so  he  made  It  seven;  and  we  sallied  forth 
under  the  protection  of  the  police,  duly  licensed 
to  wander  about  unmuzzled  for  seven  days,  with 
the  precious  documents  next  our  liearts.  This  is 
how  they  read:— 


next  mom- 
wheels  and 
red  shipped 
>m  the  CUB- 
iels  was  an 
iked  from  a 
r  way  down 
a  policeman 
I  applied  to 
g  us  that  it 
lit  at  police 
ted  us.  The 
B^ith  wound 
corridors  of 
Dally  led  us 
occupied  by 
at  last,  we 
uld  give  us 
h  we  would 
9S  at  a  cost 
a^  on  our 
:  quite  cover 
sallied  forth 
uly  licensed 
I  days,  with 
:ts.    This  is 


M] 


■s  ■■■ 


e 

V 
a 
t 

s 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


46 


THE  CITY  OF  MONTREAL. 

No.  1417— Chief  of  Police  Office,  Central  Station, 

Notre  Dame  Street. 

Pass  to  "the  Junior  Partner" 

For  7  days 

Bicycle. 

July  15.  1899. 

Geo.  H.  Hughes, 
Superintendent  of  Police. 

The  permiCM  are  now  cherished  souTenirs  of  the 
expedition.  Here  we  wish  to  pay  a  tribute  to  the 
police  of  Montreal.  They  are  nearly  ail  French 
and  they  are  all  gentlemen.  They  are  very  cour- 
teous and  most  obliging  and  polite— not  too  mudh 
so,  as  are  the  black  constabulary  in  Jamaica,  West 
Indies.  They  are  in  striking  contrast  to  most  of 
the  police  In  United  States  cities,  w'ho  are  too  lln- 
portant  by  far,  entirely  devoid  of  good  manners 
and  apparently  unable  to  grant  a  civil  reply  to  a 
civil  question.  We  have  a  few  police,  however, 
w'ho  are  Just  the  opposite. 

Next  we  went  to  the  express  office,  where  we 
obtained  an  order  on  the  customs  warehouse  for 
our  baggage,  riding  to  that  place,  down  near  the 
r^ver-front,  where  the  officials  marked  It  with  the 
magic  symbol  and  received  our  directions  for  send- 
ing it  up  to  the  hotel. 

We  were  now  free  to  expl^ore  the  city.  At  first 
one  does  not  find  Montreal  an  easy  city  to  go 
about.  The  streets  are  laid  out  with  fair  regularity 
but  the  visitor  requires  some  time  to  locate  the 
streets  clearly  with  reference  to  the  points  of  the 
compass;  but  after  a  little  it  is  simple  enougih. 


'^^'"^ 


;111 


it 


ii 


m 


1,  .4i: 


46 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


Montreal  Is  a  handsome  city,  clean  and  well  cared 
for;  but,  omitting  the  points  of  special  interest,  it 
soon  becomes  monotonous. 

Regarding  the  paved  streets,  they  were  original- 
ly intended  to  be  good;  and  those  paved  with  con- 
crete and  stone  bloclcs,  average,  probably,  as  good 
as  the  streets  of  most  large  cities;  but  many  of 
the  streets  of  Montreal  are  paved  with  vrooden 
blocks  that  have  worn  very  unevenly,  the  result 
being  innumerable  deep  depressions,  malcing  it 
very  hard  and  disagreeable  to  ride  a  bicycle  over 
them.  On  the  outsliirts,  however,  where  the  streets 
are  surfaced  with  loam  or  macadam,  it  is  pleasant 
riding,  for  the  streets,  particularly  in  the  best  res- 
idential sections,  are  very  pretty;  and  the  city  has 
a  profusion  of  fine  trees. 

We  decided  first  to  go  to  Mount  Royal,  which 
stands  a  little  to  the  northwest  of  the  city,  and  it 
proved  to  be  a  pleasant  ride.  Arriving  at  Mount 
Royal  we  found  an  inclined  railway  leading  to  the 
summit.  The  fare  is  eight  cents,  up  and  baclc,  in- 
cluding the  wheels,  and  entering  the  car  we  soon 
found  ourselves  being  drawn  up  by  a  cable,  the 
power  being  located  in  an  engine  house  at  the  top. 
We  had  been  up  inclined  roads  before,  but  never 
one  so  steep  as  this.  Half  of  it  must  have  been 
tilted  fully  forty-five  degrees,  and  as  we  loolied 
behind  and  down  below  us,  then  up  and  at  the 
slender  cable  upon  the  strength  of  w'hlch  so  much 
depended,  it  caused  a  sort  of  "creepy"  feeling.  At 
the  top  we  stepped  out  and  went  to  a  pavilion,  a 
sort  of  observation  platform  perched  on  the  edge 
of  the  precipice,  from  w'hlch  we  had  a  superb  pan- 
oramic view  of  the  city,  the  St.  Lawrence  stretch- 


well  cared 
interest,  it 


re  original- 
i  with  con- 
ly,  as  good 
it  many  of 
th  wooden 
the  result 
making  it 
icycle  over 
the  streets 
is  pleasant 
le  best  res- 
le  city  has 

ral,  which 
ily,  and  it 

at  Mount 
ing  to  the 
1  baclc,  in- 
r  we  soon 
cable,  the 
It  the  top. 
but  never 
lave  been 
we  looljed 
Qd  at  the 
I  so  much 
eeling.  At 
avilion,  a 

the  edge 
perb  pan- 
e  stretch- 


^if-* 


,^' 


JlkmUk  1^ 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


47 


Ing  its  broad  silver  b;  I  u.  ^  east  and  west,  a^.!' 
the  country  for  miles  on  all  sides. 

Montreal  is  the  largest  city  in  tlie  Dominion. 
It  is  picturesquely  situated  on  an  island  in  tlie  St. 
Lawrence,  at  the  head  of  ocean  navigation,  over 
Six  hundred  miles  inland.  It  is  located  in  the 
midst  of  a  great  level  plain,  and  t&nka  among  the 
most  beautiful  cities  of  the  continent.  It  is,  pre- 
eminently, a  city  of  dhurches— gray  old  sanctu- 
aries and  stately  cathedrals  that  rival  the  grand- 
est edifices  of  Europe  in  splendor  and  historic  in- 
terest. From  our  lofty  position  we  could  see,  be- 
yond the  St.  Lawrence,  to  the  eastward,  the  fa- 
mous Beloeil  peaks,  and  to  the  north  the  Lauren- 
tian  range,  said,  by  geologists,  to  be  the  oldest  of 
the  world's  mountains.  Immediately  below  lay 
the  city. 

It  is  a  favorite  lyastime  for  cyclists  of  Montreal 
to  ascend  the  mountain  by  the  inclined  railway, 
and  then  coast  down  on  their  wheels,  round  and 
round,  winding  to  and  fro  over  a  splendid  road, 
to  the  foot.  We  did  not  coast  the  entire  distance, 
but  we  rode  over  some  of  the  beautifully  shaded 
roads,  that  tools  us  a  little  higher  than  where  we 
landed,  coasting  back  to  the  power  house  of  the 
railway,  where  we  spent  another  enjoyable  hour 
at  the  pavilion. 

The  return  to  the  city  was  made  In  substantially 
the  same  way,  the  route  awheel  being  varied  a  lit- 
tle. 

Montreal  is  a  French  city,  almost  as  much  s;o  as 
Paris.  French  is  the  language  wliich  one  hears 
most  spoken  in  the  streets.  J^early  all  the  stores 
are  French,  and  splendid  pla:ces  they  are,  many  of 


Ml 


m 


ii.v   ! 


|:;fi 


iii^ 


i 


'  t 


48 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY  OF   CHAZY. 


them.  Almost  all  the  signs  bear  French  names, 
but  nearly  all  of  them,  In  Montreal,  are  duplicated 
in  English.  The  majority  odC  people  met  on  the 
street  can  speak  English,  but  French  is  the  lan- 
guage of  the  city.  In  the  stores,  public  buildings, 
depots,  et  cetera,  both  French  and  English  are 
spoken;  and  the  conductors  of  the  electric  cars 
and  the  cab  drivers  speak  both  languages.  On  the 
street  cars,  in  the  trains  and  on  the  boats,  there 
are  more  French  papers  read  than  English.  Of 
the  total  population  of  Montreal  about  two-thirds 
are  French.  Still,  it  is  a  city  of  the  British  Em- 
pire (begging  Sir  Wilfred  Laurier's  pardon),  and 
there  must  be  no  clashing  between  the  two  na- 
tionalities. And  they  do  get  along  splendidly.  For 
Instance,  If  the  mayor  were  to  be  elected  by  i)op- 
ular  vote  the  English  would  be  out-voted  three 
to  one;  so  the  mayor  is  elected  by  acclamation, 
the  understanding  being  that  tbe  mayor  sliall  be 
French  one  year  and  Englisih  the  next,  and  so  on. 
In  the  afternoon  we  took  electric  cars  for  the 
Lachine  Rapids,  which  we  Intended  to  "shoot," 
we  presumed  it  would  be  in  "cold  blood."  But, 
oh,  dear!  We  thought  the  rapids  were  very  tame. 
It  was  a  fine  ride  to  Lachine,  where  we  had  some 
time  to  wait  for  the  boat  coming  down  the  river. 
Here  the  St.  Lawrence  is  very  broad  and  beautl- 
fut,  and  spanned  by  a  superb  Iron  bridge.  There 
were  many  other  tourists  beside  ourselves,  and  the 
moment  the  gang-plank  went  ashore  there  was  a 
frightful  scrambling  and  pushing  between  those 
who  wanted  to  come  ashore  and  those  wlio  wished 
to  go  aboard.  As  the  former  outnumbered  the 
latter  they  carried  the  day  and  we  were  borne 


I 


Qcb  names, 
duplicated 
net  on  the 
Is  the  lan- 
I  buildings, 
Qngllsh  are 
ectric  cars 
es.    On  the 
►oats,  there 
Qgllsh.    Of 
two-thirds 
(rltl^h  Em- 
irdon),  and 
le  two  na- 
idldly.  For 
ed  by  pop- 
oted  three 
;clamation, 
)r  sliall  be 
and  so  on. 
TS  for  the 
o  "shoot," 
od."    But, 
rery  tame, 
had  some 
the  river, 
nd  beautl- 
ge.    There 
^s,  and  the 
ere  was  a 
reen  those 
•ho  wiiShed 
bered  the 
ere  borne 


LACHINE    RAPIDS. 


W- 

ri  M 

k 

ii 

MiM 

] 

!"! 

f 

■  t 
I 

Ill 

1 


Hi 

11 

MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF  CHAZY. 


49 


along  in  the  crush.  Then  there  was  a  great  rush 
tor  tlie  upper  deck,  but  we  succeeded  In  getting 
good  places  near  the  rail,  and  the  boat  started. 

The  sail  to  the  Rapids  was  well  worth  the  time 
required.  Presently  we  could  see,  aihead,  the 
wliite-caps  of  the  Rapids,  and  wf  soon  entered  the 
boiling  water.  We  caught  our  breaths,  but  at  once 
discovered  that  it  was  unnecessary.  Still  it  is 
customary  to  do  so.  The  water  all  around  and  for 
some  distance  ahead  boiled  and  bubbled,  lashed 
itself  into  fairly  large  waves,  wiggled  and  twisted 
and  gurgled  a  little.  The  river,  to  be  liberal,  was 
in  a  state  of  mild  agitation;  that  was  all.  The 
steamer  did  not  stand  on  her  beam  ends,  nor  dip 
her  scuppers  under.  Perhaps  sbe  did  not  have 
any  scuppers  to  dip  under.  We  didn't  notice  them 
at  any  rate.  The  boat  simply  pitched  easily  and 
rolled  a  little,  as  we  could  tell  by  sighting  by  the 
flag-stafiC  at  the  bow,  at  objects  on  shore.  Still  it 
was  a  very  Interesting  experience  and  mildly  ex- 
citing, occupying  several  minutes,  during  which 
we  made  several  photographs. 

During  the  run  down  to  Montreal  we  were  in- 
terested in  watcQiIng  the  shoiTS,  and  amused  and 
wearied  at  the  antics  of  the  members  of  a  "per- 
sonally conducted"  pai-ty,  on  board,  who  made 
fools  of  themselves,  as  usual,  spreading  all  over 
everything  and  making  observations  and  asking 
questions  that  any  intelligent  six-year-old  child 
ought  to  be  ashamed  of. 

As  we  drew  up  at  the  wharf  at  Montreal  we  no- 
ticed several  ocean  steamers  lying  there,  and  it 
seemed  strange  to  tbink  of  their  being  (here,  six 
hundred  miles  from  the  ocean,  In  the  far  northern 
Interior  of  the  continent 


60 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


That  evening  we  sat  for  a  time  In  the  park, 
watching  the  people  promenading  along  the 
brightly  lighted  street.  Happy  people  are  these 
French,  always  bright  and  Interesting. 

While  sitting  there  we  were  both  pleased  and 
surprised  to  see  an  old  friend,  a  civil  engineer, 
who  had  visited  us  in  Boston,  and  whom  we  had 
not  seen  for  about  four  years— come  walking  by. 
Of  course,  we  accosted  him,  for  the  pleasure  of 
meeting  was  mutual. 

The  remainder  of  the  evening  we  pleasantly 
si)ent  calliiig  upon  some  friends,  the  result  being 
an  invitation  to  walk  around  Mount  Royal  in  the 
morning:;  Sunday— leaving  at  10.30  o'clock  prompt- 
ly, no  waiting  beyond  that  hour  for  anybody. 

At  the  appointed  hour  in  the  morning  we  were 
on  hand,  ready  for  the  trip.  We  walked  first 
through  the  beautiful  and  extensive  grounds  of 
McGill  College,  and  a  short  distance  beyond  I,  my 
host  and  a  young  Englishman  also  engaged  in 
business  In  Montreal,  left  the  ladles  to  pursue 
their  own  sweet  wills,  and  street  cars,  to  meet  us 
later  at  "St.  George's  on  the  hill." 

My  friend  is  an  old  Alpine  climber,  and  a 
smooth  path  where  other  fe^t  have  trod  simply 
terrifies  him  and  causes  him  to  dart  away  by 
some  more  diflicult  and  inaccessible  route.  His 
tramps  among  the  Alps  have  stood  (him  in  good 
i^tead,  but  I  followed  him  a  good  second,  along 
steep  paths  embowered  in  trees  and  bushes,  up 
steep  Inclines  and  over  lilgh  ledges  and  boulders— 
w'herever  one  could  be  found.  It  was  hlg<hly  en- 
joyable, and  my  friend  Is  a  model  companion  on 
an  outing.    So  we  walked  over  and  around  the 


In  the  park, 
along  the 
>le  are  these 
g. 

pleased  and 
vll  engineer, 
horn  we  had 

walking  by. 

pleasure  of 

e  i^leasantly 
result  being 
aoyal  In  the 
ock  prompt- 
inybody. 
ng  we  were 
walked  first 
grounds  of 
eyond  I,  my 
engaged  In 
3  to  pursue 
,  to  meet  us 

ber,  and  a 
trod  simply 
t  away  by 
route.  His 
Im  In  good 
Dond,  along 
buslies,  up 
1  boulders— 
hlg*hly  en- 
npanion  on 
around  the 


1       i)  ,^    "■- 


Hw 


r«        »-• 


ar 


.//■■ 


:r^  iBsci' 


/' 


'::iB 


mo 
Oil 
bu 
Sh 
sit 

ag 
fu 
ar 

in 

ey 

w 

B 

w 

ce 

ui 

til 

iD 

0 

tl 

0 

a 

t 
( 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF  Ct[AZY. 


51 


mountain,  finally  bringing  up  at  the  St  George's 
Club,  the  members  ol'  wfhich  include  prominent 
business  men.  There  we  were  met  by  the  ladies. 
Shaggy,  obedient  little  "Jip"  was  there,  too;  and 
sitting  on  the  broad,  cool  verandah,  which  com- 
mands a  superb  view,  we  imbibed  cooling  bever- 
ages before  returning  to  the  city,  where  we  were 
further  entertained,  at  dinner,  by  our  friends,  who 
are  delightful  and  accomplished  hosts. 

The  remainder  of  the  afternoon  we  spent  visit- 
ing some  of  the  famous  churches  and  feasting  our 
eyes  upon  their  splendid  interiors.  Among  them 
were  St.  James,  modeled  after  St.  Peter's,  at 
Rome;  and  the  Notre  Dame  Cathedral,  famous  the 
world  over  for  its  grand  proportions,  its  magnifi- 
cent interior  decorations  and  the  priceless  treas- 
ures that  it  contains.  Its  bell  is  said  to  be  among 
the  largest  in  the  world.  We  sat  for  a  time  watch- 
ing the  service,  and  then  visited  Bonseoours 
Church,  near  the  market  by  the  same  name,  where 
the  hanging  lamps  are  all  in  the  form  of  models 
of  ships  and  steamers,  and  where  the  priest  was 
addressing  the  congregation  in  vigorous  French. 

This  ended  our  day's  jaunting— and  we  returned 
to  the  hotel  to  make  ready  for  our  departure  for 
Quebec,  the  following  morning. 


'  '7  I 


imm^' 


•\'    !:. 


•IIi''"\i?; -i^ 


i!!i'i:"  ■■ 


CHAPTER  VII. 

The  next  morning  we  were  up  early,  and,  with 
the  wheels,  luggage  and  camera  thereon,  we  start- 
ed for  the  steamer  which  left  for  Quebec  at  9 
o'clock,  calling  on  the  way  at  the  postrofflce. 

Arriving  at  the  wharf,  after  checking  the 
wheels,  for  which  we  paid  twenty-five  cents  each, 
we  went  aboard  the  "Caspian,"  w'hich  was  taking 
on  coal,  which  was  brought  along  In  dump  carts 
that  were  driven  on  board.  The  "Caspian"  is  a 
good  sized  side-wlieel  steamer,  and  one  of  the 
pleasantest  craft  that  we  ever  voyaged  in.  She 
has  a  large,  well  furnished  and  well  lighted  sa- 
loon, good  staterooms,  attractive  dining  saloon 
and  a  roomy  deck.  There  was  a  fair  number  of 
first-class  passengers  beside  ourselves,  mostly  Ca- 
nadians, with  a  sprinkling  of  American  tourists 
(thanks  be  to  Allah,  none  "personally  conducted"), 
and  one  priost  from  Kentucky  who  was  making  a 
pilgrimage  to  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre  to  be  cured  of 
deafness. 

What  a  broad,  splendid  waterway  the  St.  Law- 
rence is,  Btretdhing  away  to  the  northeast  With 
scarcely  a  curve  or  bend.  The  "Caspian"  proved 
to  be  capable  of  very  good  speed,  and  she  belched 
forth  a  continuous  volume  of  black  smoke  from 
her  funnel,  indicating  soft  coal  below  and  lots  of 

it 

It  was  a  perfect  day,  with  scarc^y  a  cloud  vis- 
ible save  on  the  far  northern  horizon,  and  the  air 


ly,  and,  with 
on,  we  start, 
luebec   at   9 
t-offlce. 
decking    the 
>  cents  each, 
was  taking 
dump  carts 
Lspian"  is  a 
one  of  the 
ed  in.    She 
lighted  sa- 
^ng  saloon 
number  of 
mostly  Ca- 
an  tourists 
»ndu€ted"), 
3  making  a 
)e  cured  of 

e  St.  Law- 
least  With 
m"  proved 
tie  belched 
loke  from 
nd  lots  of 

cloud  vls- 
id  the  air 


In 


Pi 

'      ill  ai 

I]  \Mi 

i     jwjl 

.     1        f  faDfl 

V.    1  w 

[■\  m 

;   1 

MONTRSAL  BY  WAY  OF    CHAZY. 


63 


was  cool  and  bracing.  The  scenes  along  botb 
sbores  were  interesting  to  us,  because  they  were 
entirely  new.  The  country  for  nearly  the  entire 
distance  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  is  al- 
most flat,  excepting  here  and  there  steep  blufiCs 
along  the  river  banks.  Here  and  there,  as  we 
steamed  down  the  broad  river,  little  liamlets  ap- 
peared, each  with  its  tall  spired  ohureh;  and  very 
pretty  they  looked  against  the  vivid  green  back- 
ground. Here  and  there,  wliere  the  river  broad- 
ened, there  were  extensive  marshes,  some  of  them 
almost  entirely  covered  with  vivid  crimson  flow- 
ers. 

We  passed  several  craft,  coming  up  the  river, 
curious,  clumsy^  hulls  with  square  bows,  loaded 
with  wood  and  barely  moving,  each  under  a  sin- 
gle great  square  sail  which  looked  not  unlike  a 
lateen  sail,  on  a  mast  stepped  well  forward.  Evi- 
dently they  could  only  run  before  the  wind;  at 
least,  they  would  have  difficulty  in  luffing  and  I 
should  like  to  witness  tlie  operation— from  the 
bank,—  for  one  of  these  curious  craft  would  surely 
require  the  who»le  width  of  the  river. 

The  channel  is  marked  with  frequent  buoys,  for 
we  were  told  that  the  channel  is  constantly  sliift- 
Ing  and  has  to  be  carefully  watched  and  dredged; 
and  we  passed  several  dredges  at  work. 

The  first  landing  was  at  'Sorel,  a  small  place  on 
the  riglit  bank,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Bidhelieu 
and  the  St.  Lawrence:  and  it  is  a  noteworthy  fact 
that,  in  a  forty  or  flfty  foot  steam  launch,  a  voy- 
age can  be  made  from  the  St.  Lajwrence  and  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  at  New  York,  by  way  of  the  Rich- 
elieu, Lake  Ghamplain,  the  Ohamplain  Qanal  and 


i  111'.  - 


64 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF    CHAZY. 


the  Hudson  River.  This  Is  frequently  done  by 
canal  boats. 

During  the  few  minutes  thr.L  the  steamer  lay  at 
Sorel,  we  had  a  g^od  chance  to  observe  the  people, 
many  of  whom  were  at  the  wlharf ,  and  they  were 
well  appearing,  vivacious  people,  especially  the 
girls,  some  of  whom  were  very  pretty. 

Soon  after  leaving  SOrel  we  entered  Lake  St. 
Peter,  which  is  simply  a  very  broad  place  in  the 
river;  and  such  is  its  expanse  that,  looking  directly 
aliead,  the  eye  meets  the  horizon,  just  as  it  would 
at  sea;  thoug*h,  on  either  side,  the  shores  can,  of 
course,  be  see^. 

The  dinner  gong  sounded  soon  after  entering 
the  lake,  and  we  forthwith  repai^d  to  the  dining- 
room.  At  our  table  there  was  a  waiter  whose 
English  was  so  limited  that  he  couldn't  under- 
stand whether  we  wanted  pommes  de  terre  or 
"oeuf s"  on  toast.  He  appealed  to  the  liead  waiter, 
who  relieved  him  and  sent  an  Engli^  speaking 
Frenchman  to  our  table.  We  sat  by  a  wide,  open 
window,  from  which  we  could  look  out  at  the 
shore;  which  reminded  me  of  a  voyage  I  once  took 
along  the  south  coast  of  Jamaica,  only  I  could  not 
quite  see  the  shore  of  South  America,  although  it 
was  not  very  far  away. 

After  dinner  we  inspected  the  engine  rooms,  as 
we  always  do,  and  sihades  of  Fulton,  of  all  the 
antiquated  pieces  of  mechanism.  It  was  built 
some  fifty  years  ago;  but,  while  rudely  construct- 
ed and  covered  with  rust,  it  forced  the  boat 
through  the  water  without  a  tremor. 

On  this  deck  were  the  passengers  below  flrst- 
dass,  at  which  no  first-class  passenger  ouglit  to 
complain. 


r  done  by 

mer  lay  at 
the  i>eople, 
they  were 
«lally  the 

Lake  St. 
ice  In  the 
ig  directly 
J  It  would 
sa  can,  of 

entering 
lie  dining- 
er  whose 
I't  under- 

terre  or 
Ld  waiter, 
speaking 
ide,  open 
it  at  the 
mce  took 
could  not 
though  it 

■ooms,  as 
f  aU  the 
ras  built 
onstruct- 
the   boat 

ow  flrst- 
:>ught  to 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


66 


At  the  lower  end  of  Lake  St  Peter  another  land- 
ing was  made,  at  Three  Rivers,  a  place  of  consid- 
erable size,  built  along  the  river-bank  at  the  foot 
of  the  blufif.  Three  Rivers  is  an  important  station 
of  the  Oanadian  Pacific  Railway,  which  runs  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  river.  Half  the  population 
gathered  at  the  landing,  including  several  priests 
and  policemen,  the  occasion  being  graced  by  the 
presence  of  the  Ohlef  of  Police,  as  we  observed  by 
the  letters  on  his  chapeau.  He  looked  like  a  Ck)S- 
sack  in  his  quaint  uniform,  over  the  front  of  which 
bushy  whiskers  trailed  like  the  water  pouring 
down  over  the  Falls  of  Montmorency.  The  Junior 
Partner  tried  to  secure  a  photograph  of  this  guar- 
dian of  the  peace,  but  the  moment  '^e  leveled  the 
camera  toward  the  wharf  half  of  the  people  there 
began  to  edge  along  so  as  to  be  included  in  the 
view,  with  the  result  that  she  was  compelled  to 
abandon  the  attempt. 

While  we  were  on  Lake  St.  Peter  the  steamer 
ran  Into  a  squall,  when  the  rain  fell  so  heavily  that 
the  «rhores  were  obscured  from  view  and  every- 
body was  driven  inside;  and  It  did  not  entirely 
cease  raining  until  we  were  nearly  up  to  Three 
Rivers.  As  we  neared  Quebec  the  levefl  country 
was  left  behind  and  the  bluffs  were  higher  and 
^eper,  with  hills  beyond. 

Our  journey  was  made  stiiU  more  pleasant  by 
the  attention  of  Oaptain  Craijg,  who  chatted  with 
us  concerning  points  on  the  river  and  rdated  in<d- 
dents  in  his  active  and  interesting  career.  Gap- 
tain  Craig  is  very  popular  with  the  traveling  pub- 
lic, because  he  is  not  only  pleasant  and  agreeable 
himself,  but  he  is  constantly  trying  to  add  to  the 
enjoyment  of  his  passengers. 


IVj'-^ 


*ii!n^' 


-I  if 


66 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY  OF   CHAZY. 


I 


Interest  In  the  voyage  subsided  as  we  neared 
Quebec,  and  presently  we  saw,  outlined  against 
the  sky,  on  the  left,  the  frowning  Oltadel,  situated 
at  the  top  of  a  great  rock  Which  rises,  sheer,  hun- 
dreds of  feet  above  the  water,  like  Gibraltar, 
which,  in  times  past,  rendered  It  impregnable. 
Passing  under  the  shadow  of  the  famous  fortress, 
old  Quebec,  ancient  and  hoary,  was  before  us,  the 
"Lower  Town"  bunched  at  the  water's  edge,  with 
the  "Upper  Town"  above.  Its  lower  part  dim  in  the 
sihadows  of  the  twlligiht,  and  with  the  upper  part, 
crowning  the  hill,  standing  out  sharply  in  a  serrat- 
ed line  against  the  glowing  sky. 

Disembarking  we  made  our  way  through  the 
babel  of  carriage  drivers  until  we  found  a  vehicle 
bearing  the  name  of  the  hotel  to  w^hlch  we  were 
going;  and,  In  company  with  three  bright  young 
ladies  from  St.  Paul,  Minnesota,  we  rumbled  away 
to  the  "Upper  Town,"  zigzagging  to  and  fro  up  the 
steep,  narrow  streets,  quaint  and  curious,  until 
the  panting  horses  stopped  in  front  of  the  hotel. 


we  neared 
id  against 
il,  situated 
tbeer,  bun- 
Gibraltar, 
pregnable. 
8  fortress, 
*re  us,  tbe 
?dge,  witb 
lim  in  tbe 
pper  part, 
I  a  serrat- 

ough  tbe 
a  vehicle 
we  were 
ht  young 
led  away 
ro  up  tbe 
'US,  until 
i  hotel. 


V     ■ 

iSif 

•■■■;i,'  i 

' 

r 

nil  i|"t 

1 

CHAPTBR  VIII. 


We  determined  to  wheel  to  Ste.  Anne  de  Beau- 
pre  before  exploring  Quebec,  bo,  early  the  next 
morning,  we  went  to  the  "Lower  Town"  to  the 
Wharf,  and  securing  the  wheels,  set  out.  Riding 
along  the  business  thoroug<hfares,  narrow  and 
quaint,  few  of  the  places  of  business  being  open 
at  that  hour,  we  crossed  the  bridge  over  the  6t 
Charles  river,  taking  a  northeast  course  to  the  St 
Lawrence. 

We  entered  a  country  fair  to  look  upon.  Ricli 
grass-lands  and  fields  of  growing  crops  lay  on 
either  side  of  the  road,  and  wild-flowers  in  great 
profusion  lent  brilliancy  to  the  landscape.  It  was 
a  bright  morning,  with  a  sillglit  crispncss  in  the 
air,  and  the  road  was  all  that  could  be  desired, 
with  no  liiUs  to  compel  dismounting;  indexed,  we 
were  able  to  coast  frequently.  Here  and  there 
the  road  was  shaded  by  locust  trees,  and  generally 
the  way  was,  for  the  first  ten  miles,  through  a 
highly  cultivated  section.  Our  route  lay  along  the 
valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  boumded  on  the  left  by 
an  almost  continuous  bluff,  beyond  which  the 
country  stretched  away  to  the  unbroken  northern 
wilderness— unbroken  to  the  Arctic  Circle.  To  the 
right  the  beautiful  fertile  valley,  cut  up  by  rail 
fences  enclosing  the  little  rectangular  French 
farms— gently  sloped  to  the  great  broad  river. 

We  were  in  a  community  of  what  might  be  des^ 
ignated    French    peasantry,    prosperous,    thrifty, 


ill 


m 


68 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZV. 


small  farmers.  We  frequently  met  people  on  the 
road.  They  were  very  reserved,  but  always  cour- 
teous, 'ihe  farm-houses  were  nearly  all  built  in 
the  style  of  architecture  peculiar  to  the  country 
districts  of  Brittany,  in  France,  with  roofs  curv- 
ing upward  at  the  lower  edges,  and  with  figured 
paper  shades  at  the  windows.  In  front  of  nearly 
all  of  them,  bright,  carefully  tended  flowers  added 
to  their  attractiveness.  We  saw,  here  and  there, 
women  worlsing  In  the  fields,  with  the  men;  and 
among  the  most  novel  sights  on  the  road  was  a 
small  milk-cart  drawn  by  a  large  dog  harnessed 
Into  the  shafts,  driven  by  a  French  boy.  We 
halted  him  and  tried  to  make  him  understand  that 
we  wished  to  take  a  photograph  of  him  and  his 
turnout;  and  althougli  we  were  unable  to  make 
him  comprehend,  he  posed  for  us  without  protest- 
ing, for  which  I  rewarded  him  with  a  few  coppers. 

We  were  on  the  road  to  the  Northern  Mecca— to 
the  shrine  of  "Bonne  Ste.  Anne,"  and  at  short  in- 
tervals, by  the  roadside,  we  came  to  a  tall  black 
wooden  cross,  a  tiny  chapel,  bow-shaped,  rounded 
at  the  back,  or  tiny  shrines  containing  images  of 
Ste.  Anne. 

Spinning  down  a  small  hiU  with  our  feet  on  the 
coasters,  suddenly  a  roar  like  that  made  by  fall- 
ing water,  broke  upon  our  ears. 

"We  must  be  near  the  Falls  of  Montmorency," 
I  said  to  the  Junior  Partner,  and,  inquiring  of  a 
boy  who  happened  along  just  then,  he  directed  us 
to  the  falls.  The  falls  are  hidden  by  trees  and 
cannot  be  seen  from  the  road;  and  the  adjacent 
territory  is  fenced  in.  As  we  approached  the  gate 
a  man  came  out  of  the  inn  on  the  opposite  side  of 


»» 


P.ASILTCA,    STK.    ANNE    DK    HEAUPRE, 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY  OF   CHAZY. 


59 


the  road,  and  in  a  soft  Yoice  informed  us  that  the 
charge  to  pass  would  be  twenty-iflve  cents  eacb. 
This  we  paid  and  mounting  our  wheels  rode  along 
a  smooth,  winding,  sihady  road  among  the  trees, 
following  the  sound  of  the  Falls,  which  we  could 
not  gee  until  we  were  right  abreast  of  them. 

It  was  a  most  beautiful  sight.  The  Falls  are  not 
more  than  fifty  or  sixty  feet  wide,  but  they  are 
275  feet  high,  about  a  hundred  feet  higTier  than  Ni- 
agara, and  the  water  plunges  down  the  almosit 
perpendicular  face  of  the  cliflC,  which  is  closely 
covered  with  trees,  contrasting  most  beautifully 
with  the  vivid  whiteness  of  the  falling  water.  The 
roclc  over  which  the  water  falls,  and  that  all 
around,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  at  least.  Is  com- 
posed of  a  very  soft  sha  le.  At  the  ht-ink  of  the 
precipice  opposite  the  Falls  tiiere  Is;  a  little  pa- 
vilion, from  which  a  flight  of  wcodcn  stairs  de- 
scends to  a  platform  about  half -way  down.  There 
we  sat  and  gazed  upon  this  naruiTl  wonder,  and 
admired  the  rainbow  in  the  vapoT  at  the  foot  of 
the  Falls,  which  rose  In  a  cloud,  lil^e  steam.  A 
short  distance  from  here  the  water  passing  over 
the  Falls  flows  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  wliich  is 
plainly  visible.  Surely  no  cataract  in  the  world 
can  be  more  beautiful  than  that  at  Montmorency. 
We  spent  nearly  an  hour  there,  taking  a  photo- 
graph, and  then  returning  to  iShe  road  we  resumed 
our  ride  to  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre. 

Now,  for  m&ny  miles,  we  coasted  nearly  all  the 
way.  The  road  was  superb,  the  reason  being  ap- 
parent when  we,  now  and  then,  passed  men  at 
work  on  it,  and  scrapers  smoothing  the  surface. 
The  French  here  have  not  forgotten  the  art  so  well 


i'L 


60 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY   OF    CHAZY. 


known  to  their  nationality— road-building.  We 
passed  frequent  villages,  quiet,  quaint  little  ham- 
lets; and  at  short  Intervals  we  came  to  cool,  bub- 
bling springs  by  tlie  way. 

Toward  noon  ":c  looked  for  some  place,  perhaps 
an  Inn,  where  we  could  get  dinner;  but  seeing 
none,  wo  aslied  a  man  on  a  team  whidh  we  over- 
took, where  we  could  obtain  something  to  sus- 
tain us  during  the  remainder  of  our  pilgrimage. 
He  directed  us  to  a  house  which  stood  high  above 
the  road,  a  few  rods  ahead. 

A  few  minutes  before  we  stopped  at  a  house 
where  we  made  our  wants  known,  and  a  good- 
natured  man  tried  his  best  to  get  us  some  milk, 
going  to  several  of  his  neiglibors  in  an  endeavor 
to  find  some.  He  was  unsuccessful,  however,  ex- 
pressing his  regrets  with  many  shrugs  of  his 
shoulders. 

Stopping  In  front  of  the  house  to  wlilch  we  were 
directed  by  the  man  on  the  team,  I  went  up  the 
steps  and  rapped  at  the  door.  A  man  with  a  shock 
of  hair  which  stood  straight  up  all  over  his  head, 
appeared,  and  when  he  understood  wliat  we 
wanted  he  divsappeared.  I  could  hear  the  tattle  of 
dislies,  knives  and  forks,  Indicating  tbat  the 
family  was  at  dinner.  Soon  the  man  re^appeared 
and  told  me  that  we  could  not  get  anything  to  eat 
there.  I  then  asked  hir  if  we  could  not  get  some 
milk,  for  we  were  very  nungry.  Once  more  he  dis- 
appeared to  the  regions  within  and  soon  a  kindly 
looking,  elderly  woman  came  to  the  door  and  in- 
vited us  in.  Once  Inside,  I  opened  negotiations, 
I  mentioned  the  word  "store,"  and  suggested  that 
they  might  send  out  and  get  something  for  us.    A 


il 


;1     ■ 


t. 


INTERIOR    OF     I'HE    BASILICA. 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


61 


buxom  young  woman  entered  the  room,  and  we 
understood  one  another  in  a  moment.  She  ad- 
dressed her  remarks  to  the  Junior  Partner,  and 
the  French  flew  thick  and  fast. 

"Er,  will  you  —  algs?"  inquired  Mademoiselle. 

"Yes,  let's  do  it,"  said  I  Joyfully,  interrupting 
the  conversation.  "If  there's  anything  I  like  to  do 
wlien  I'm  hungry,"  said  I,  "it's  eggs." 

"Oui,"  said  the  Junior  Partner. 

"Oui,  oul."  1  chimed  in;  and  "oeufs!"  called  out 
Mademoiselle,  moving  toward  the  kitchen. 

Now  the  Junior  Partner  always  carries  a  chate- 
laine, a  fearful  and  wonderful  receptacle,  from  the 
mysterious  depths  of  which  is  liable  to  come  al- 
most anything  in  times  of  emergency.  On  this 
occasion  it  was  a  few  shelled  walnuts  for  the 
baby,  which  opened  the  heart  of  not  only  the 
child's  grandmother,  but  its  mother,  wlio  led  the 
little  one  up  to  the  Junior  Partner,  telling  it,  in 
French,  to  thank  the  lady;  and  it  lisped:  **Merci, 
Madame"  as  plainly  as  it  could. 

To  my  great  pleasure  another  full  grown  and 
well  developed  Mademoiselle  appeared;  and  they 
all  fell  to,  went  into  the  spare  room  and  got  out 
tbe  best  table  cloth,  the  best  knives  and  forks  and 
dishes,  spreading  the  table  in  the  front  room.  One 
of  the  dear  girls  went  out  and  got  some  cakes; 
and  they  made  tea  and  brought  out  some  damson 
preserves  with  thick  cream,  so  we  sat  down  to  a 
delicious  lunch,  which  included  fried  eggs  and 
bread  and  butter.  While  we  ate  we  conversed  in 
a  mixture  of  French  and  English,  with  one  of  the 
young  !f!die«,  w  l,o  sat  by  with  some  sewing.  We 
toll  t^r  whei'e  we  were  going,  sihe  thought,  at 


92 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


first,  until  we  showed  her  the  wheels,  that  we  were 
making  the  pilgrlniage  on  foot  We  told  her  how 
far  we  had  come  that  day,  and  where  our  home 
was,  this  interested  h'er  for  ^he  had  i.  brother  in 
Haverhill,  Massachusetts— "Averill,"  she  pro- 
nounced it,  and  she  wanted  to  linow  how  far  that 
was  from  Boston. 

Then  she  wanted  to  know  if  we  were  brother 
and  sister,  and  the  Junior  Partner  stated  that  sihe 
was  **Madame,"  which  explained  the  mystery. 
Then  I  aslced  Mademoiselle  if  she  was  married. 
She  blushed  and  said:  "Non." 
I  observed  that,  in  that  case,   there  must  be 
either  a   great  scarcity  of   young  men   in   that 
vicinity,  or  else  tliey  were  a  mighty  unapprecla- 
tive  lot  of  fellows. 

We  finished  dinner  and  I  asljed  how  much  It 
would  be.  The  young  lady  consulted  her  mother, 
and  then  turning  to  me,  said;  "Five-ty  cents," 
which  I  most  cheerfully  paid. 

Again  we  mounted  the  wheels  and  pedalled  on 
with  renewed  vigor  but  presently,  to  our  sudden 
surprise  we  had  to  dismount  and  from  here  on 
We  wallied  most  of  the  way 
To  Sante  Anne  de  Beaupre 
Over  a  Jagged  road  of  clay. 
Occasionally  we  could  ride  a  little,  and  once  I 
was    unceremoniously    unseated    by    my    wheel 
sinking  to  the  liub  in  a  clay  mire. 

The  bluff  along  the  left-hand  side  of  the  road 
was  now  very  high  and  lofty,  and  covered  with 
trees,  and  every  rod  or  two  a  little  stream  of  water 
ru^ed  down  to  the  road,  an  opening  In  the  foliage 
sometimes  revealing  a  pretty  cascade.  It  was  cer- 
tainly a  profusely  watered  country. 


liL 


tt 


n 


w 


w 


T 
&: 

1  i 

P 

iin'' 

i  fl 

r^'j^l 


MONTREAL    BY   WAY   OF   mAZY. 


68 


eii   glimpses  of 
re  uot  so  at- 


Ab  we  proceeded  we  caught  f ' 
the  Interiors  of  the  houses,  whi 
tractive  as  the  exteriors. 

Anon,  we  passed  women  washing  clothes  by  the 
streams,  with  fires  burning  beneath  great  kettles 
resting  upon  arches  of  stones;  and  by  some  of  the 
houses,  dinner  was  being  cooked  In  the  open  air, 
tlie  whole  family  assisting  and  tending  the  fires 
under  the  kettles  In  which  the  food  was  being 
cooked. 

Here  and  there  by  the  road  were  vegetable  cel- 
lars and  dairies  built  into  the  side  of  the  hill  with 
brick  front  and  heavy  doors.  Some  of  them  were 
In  ruins  but  others  were  in  good  rejxalr. 

So  riding  and  walking  alternately  we  reached 
the  village  of  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre,  wheeling 
through  the  main  street  to  the  church  of  Bonne 
Ste.  Anne. 

Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre  has  been,  for  more  than 
two  hundred  and  fifty  years,  the  place  of  pilgrim- 
age for  devout  Catholics  seeking  health. 

It  is  very  often  difficult  to  separate  tradition 
from  history  so  we  will  call  this  story  tradition. 
In  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century  some 
Breton  mariners,  who  were  overtaken  by  a  violent 
storm  while  navigating  the  St.  Lawrence,  vowed 
to  Saint  Anne  that  if  delivered  from  the  dangers 
that  threatened  them,  they  would  erect  a  sanctu- 
ary on  the  spot  on  which  they  should  land.  Their 
prayers  were  heard  and  they  erected  a  small 
wooden  chapel.  The  first  primitive  little  structure 
was  replaced  by  a  larger  one  In  1660,  and  it  was 
almost  entirely  rebuilt  In  1787.  In  1878  It  became 
a  pretentious  chapel  and  now  stands  on  the  site  of 


fef 


..«*:». 


.vr. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1,^/  |50     "^^       Mil 


I.I 


2.5 


m  m 


;^  u&  12.0 


1.8 


L25||l.4,,.6 

< 6"     

► 

V 


v] 


Hiotographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


\ 


^ 


V 


^ 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872^503 


7s 


% 


^ 


"'f-jffHK''' 


Im 


i 


64 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


the  sacred  spring  whose  waters  are  supposed  to 
possess  miraculous  properties.  Across  the  street 
there  is  a  splendid  edifice,  opened  in  1876  and 
raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  Basilica  by  Pope  Pius 
IX.  It  is  of  immense  proportions  and  the  architec- 
ture is  Corinthian.  A  marvellously  beautiful  and 
colossal  statue  of  Ste.  Anne  surmounts  the  facade 
between  twin  towers  of  great  height.  The  interior 
is  unrivalled  for  its  beauty  and  Imposing  grand- 
eur, and  there  are  many  paintings  representing 
different  scenes  in  the  life  of  Christ.  On  eadh  side 
of  the  entrance  are  large  pyramids  of  canes, 
crutclhes,  trusses  and  splints,  left  there  in  evidence 
of  the  efficajcy  of  the  intervention  of  the  saint. 

Near  the  altar  there  is  another  statue  of  Ste. 
Anne,  resting  on  a  column  of  onyx;  and  at  the  foot 
there  is  a  fragment  of  the  finger  bone  of  the  saint, 
procured  by  I-raval,  the  first  bislhop  of  New 
France;  a  part  of  the  wrist  of  the  saint  sent  by 
Pope  Leo  XIII.  and  a  portion  of  the  rqek  from  the 
grotto  in  which  Ste.  Anne  gave  birth  to  the  Virgin 
Mary.  Beside,  there  are  many  valuable  gifts  from 
famous  persons,  among  them  being  a  superb  chas- 
uble, the  worls  of  Anne  of  Austria,  Queen  of 
France  and  mother  of  Louis  XIV.  The  Scala 
Santa,  or  "sacred  stairs,"  which  supplicants 
ascend  upon  their  Ii:nees,  is  constructed  in  imita- 
tion of  Pilate's  palace  at  Jerusalem,  each  step  con- 
taining relics  from  the  Holy  Land. 

One  of  a  party  of  young  ladies  aslsed  a  priest  if 
they  might  go  up  the  stairs  on  their  knees,  to 
which  he  replied  that  they  could  if  they  wished, 
but  that  they  would  find  some  Protestant  stairs 
near  by  that  they  could  go  up  a  good  deal  quicker. 


v. 


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> 

D 


c/; 


0 


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Li 

SE 

T 

92 
W 

Id 
tl 
f( 

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tl 
si 
tl 
si 

le 

«; 

Si 

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t: 

q 

t 

< 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF  CHAZY. 


05 


Last  year  there  were  about  125,000  pilgrims  to  this 
spot. 

The  broad  St.  I/awrence  rolls  past  the  door. 
The  week  of  our  visit  was  one  of  pilgrimage.  We 
sat  in  the  churcti  and  gazed  at  the  beautiful  altar 
with  its  masses  of  cheap  artificial  flowers,  in  strik- 
ing contrast  to  the  almost  priceless  treasures  In 
the  churclh.  We  saw  the  devotees  crowd  at  tlie 
foot  of  the  statue  of  the  saint,  raise  their  eyes, 
pray  and  then  kiiss  the  little  disk  of  plate  glass 
Whidi  covered  the  sacred  relics.  Then  many  of 
them  went  to  the  chapels  that  extended  along  both 
sides  of  the  church,  each  dedicated  to  some  par- 
ticular saint,  there  to  ask  some  special  interces- 
sion. 

Across  the  street,  on  the  hillside,  there  is  a  gate 
leading  to  an  inclosure,  above  which  we  read  the 
words  "The  Way  of  the  Cross."  The  way  zig-zags 
up  the  hill,  crosses  being  planted  at  intervals,  the 
way  terminating  at  the  foot  of  a  great  cross  on 
Which  there  is  a  figure  of  the  crucified  Christ.  Ad- 
joining this  there  is  a  cemetery,  and  in  it  a  small 
sanctuary  containing  figures  representing  the 
crucifixion,  wbere  the  walls  were  covered  with  in- 
scriptions written  with  lead  pencils,  signed  with 
the  names  of  the  writers;  among  them  being  fre- 
quently a  suppli<;ation  to  the  saint  in  these  words: 
'•iSte.  Anne,  pray  for  us." 

We  entered  a  little  cemetery  where  the  graves 
were  some  of  them,  curiously  marked;  some  of  the 
tomb-stones  and  head  pieces  having  set  into  them 
glass  cases  containing  photographs  of  the  de- 
ceased. 

Along  the  roadside,  and  by  the  entrances  to  the 


66 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


great  churdi,  were  booths  w'here  were  exposed  for 
sale,  rosaries,  figures  of  Ste.  Anne,  medals,  cruci- 
fixes and  many  other  holy  emblems;  and  we  pur- 
chased several  of  these. 

By  a  sign  near  the  side  or  rear  entrance,  visitors 
and  pilgrims  were  admonished  that  alms  should 
be  given  to  beggars. 

At  about  the  centre  of  the  village,  in  a  little  gar- 
den. Just  off  the  main  street,  there  is  a  small 
shrine  containing  a  figure  of  Ste.  Anne.  We  were 
told  that  when  a  conflagration  visited  the  town 
ei^ht  years  ago,  that  the  flames  did  not  pass  be- 
yond the  shrine;  and  it  is  stated  that  the  interces- 
sion of  the  saint  arrested  the  progress  of  the  fire. 

A  visit  to  the  "Mecca"  of  the  Northland  is  an 
event  never  to  be  forgotten.  It  Is  a  land  very 
quaint,  very  curious,  and  above  all,  very  French. 

We  took  the  train  from  the  little  station  on  the 
Quebec,  Montmorency  &  Charlevoix  Railway  at  the 
foot  of  the  long  plank  walk  which  leads  from  the 
church,  back  to  Quebec.  The  station  agent,  when 
I  purchased  the  tickets,  asked  whether  we  would 
go  first  or  second  class,  explaining  that,  If  first- 
class,  the  wheels  would  be  carried  free,  and  if 
second-class,  a  charge  would  be  made  for  them, 
so  we  went  first-class. 

On  the  way  to  Quebec  we  had  a  good  oppor- 
tunity to  observe  the  people  In  another  aspect— as 
they  gathered  at  the  stations;  and  as  we  passed 
Montmorency  we  had  another  view  of  the  Falls. 

Arriving  at  Quebec  we  rode  along  the  "Lower 
Town"  to  the  foot  of  Rue  du  Palais,  which  climbs  . 
the  "Upper  Town." 


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OHAPTBR  IX. 

That  eyenlng  we  went,  In  company  with  the 
three  young  ladles  from  St  Paul,  to  Dufferin 
Terrace,  in  front  of  the  Chateau  Prontenac,  a 
splendid  hotel  conducted  by  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway.  The  broad  Terrace  is  built  along  the 
edge  of  the  great  Gibraltar-like  roclc,  far  above 
the  Lower  Town,  some  parts  of  it 
overhanging  the  houses  along  Little  Champlain 
Street  below.  At  the  northern  side  of  the 
Terrace  stands  the  Chateau  Frontenac,  the 
great  Citadel  loom'ng  far  above  the  whole,  on  the 

western  side.  From  the  Terrace  a  roiigniflcent 
view  is  obtained,  even  in  the  evening,  ith  the 
lights  below  and  across  the  river.  The  Terrace 
serves  as  the  fashionable  promenade  of  Quebec; 
and  here  the  elite  appear  nig*htly,  dressed  in  their 
very  best,  wall?:lng  up  and  down,  sitting  upon  the 
settees  or  leaning  over  the  rail  in  front.  It  is  a 
brilliant  scene.  Petite  French  mademoiselles  are 
there  in  pleasing  profusion;  and  a  majestic  mem- 
ber of  the  Royal  Canadian  Militia,  in  full  uniform 
and  spurs,  strides  up  and  down,  thereby  impart- 
ing a  kind  of  military  dignity.  Along  the  front  of 
the  Chateau  Frontenac  there  is  a  row  of  ever- 
green trees,  behind  which,  in  a  sort  of  open-air 
cafe,  refreshments  are  served.  Brilliantly  lighted 
by  electricity,  the  effect  is  most  fascinating.  On 
certain  evenings  band  concerts  are  given  on  the 
Terrace,  which,  of  course,  adds  to  the  life  and 
gayety.  The  Terrace  is  fuUy  quarter  of  a  mile 
long.    On  it  are  erected  five  handsome  kiosks,  to 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF   CHAZY. 


which  the  namos  Plessls,  Frontenac,  Lome  and 
Ivonlse,  Dufferin  and  Victoria,  are  given.  The 
Ten'ace  is  more  than  200  feet  above  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Across  the  river  is  Levis,  where  there  are 
three  formidable  forts;  and  down  stream  is  the 
beautiful  Isle  d'Orleans— the  "Isle  of  Paccus"  of 
Jacques  Cartler,  at  a  later  day  known  as  Sorcer- 
er's Island,  on  account  of  the  fireflies  that  danced 
over  its  swamps,  believed  by  the  Indians  and 
early  lYench  settlers  to  have  some  connection 
with  His  Majesty,  the  Devil.  Furtber  away  is 
Gape  Tourmente;  and  to  the  left  the  St.  Oharlea 
sweeps  and  gracefully  wends  its  way  to  the 
greater  river.  In  the  valley  of  the  St.  Obarles 
still  stand  the  gaunt  ruins  of  Chateau  Bigot, 
famed  in  early  history  hereabout 

We  were  sitting  together  near  the  western  end 
of  the  Terrace,  almost  under  the  guns  of  tbe  Cita- 
del, when,  suddenly,  the  sky  was  illuminated  by  a 
bright  flash,  followed  by  a  sharp  report.  The  ef- 
fect upon  us  all  was  startling,  and  one  of  the 
young  ladles  came  near,  so  she  said,  Jumping  over 
the  rail  of  the  Terrace  into  Little  Champlain 
Street.  We  had  scarcely  returned  to  the  hotel 
when  the  rain  came  down  in  torrents,  and  it  was 
fortunate  that  we  escaped  it 

The  morning  dawned  bright  and  clear,  and  im- 
mediately after  breakfast  we  started  out  to  see 
Quebec. 

In  all  North  America,  there  Is  no  city  richer  in 
historic  treasures,  or  one  of  greater  grandeur  in 
its  surroundings.  Here  it  was  that  European  civ- 
ilization was  first  planted  in  the  Northland.  Here 
two  old  world  powers  battled  for  the  iK>ssession  of 
half  a  continent. 


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MONTREAL   BY   WAY  OP   CHAZY. 


60 


Looking  down  from  the  Terrace  front,  i«  seen 
the  narrow  street  named  after  the  founder  of 
Quebec,  extending  along  to  the  foot  of  the  Oltadel 
cliff,  Just  beyond  which  Is  the  narrow  pass  where 
Montgomery  fell  mortally  wounded  while  leading 
bis  men  In  an  attack  upon  the  city.  We  flrst  vis- 
ited the  Governor's  Garden,  a  little  public  park  In 
the  rear  of  Dufferln  Terrace,  where  there  Is  a 
dual-faced  stone  column  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm, 
erected  In  1827  and  1828.  On  It  Is  this  Inscription; 
—"Valor  gave  a  common  death,  history  a  common 
fame,  and  posterity  a  common  monument." 

On  our  way  to  the  Citadel  we  passed  the  post- 
office.  In  the  northern  facade  of  the  building,  on 
Bande  Street,  Is  the  gilt  figure  of  a  dog  gnawing 
a  bone,  about  which  there  is  a  legend  Vhich  Kirby 
has  woven  into  a  charming  romance.  Under  the 
French  regime,  a  coffee  house  stood  upon  the  site 
now  occupied  by  the  post-office,  and  its  owner, 
having  a  dispute  vdth  the  Intendant  Bigot  or 
some  other  high  official,  revenged  himself  by  plac- 
ing this  sculptured  tablet  in  front  of  the  house, 
with  the  accomi>anylng  lines  in  French:— 

"Je  suls  un  chlen  qui  ronge  I'os, 
En  le  rongcant  je  prends  mon  repos, 
Un  temps  vlendra  qui  n*est  pas  venu. 
Que  Je  mordray  qui  m'aura  mordu. 
1736." 


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Freely  translated,  It  reads  as  follows:— 

"I  am  a  dog  gnawing  a  bone. 
While  I  gnaw  I  take  my  repose. 
The  time  will  come,  though  not  yet. 
When  I  will  bite  him  who  now  bites  me." 


70 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF    CHAZY. 


Climbing  up  the  glac's  of  the  Citadel  to  the 
guard  house,  a  little  girl,  somewhat  soiled  as  to 
garments,  came  forward  and  offered  to  take 
charge  of  the  camera,  which  could  not  be  talien 
Inside  the  fortress.  Taking  it  into  the  house,  she 
conducted  us  to  the  gate  of  the  inner  foiire&s,  for 
which  the  Junior  Partner  rewarded  her  with  ^>me 
silver  coins.  Passing  through  the  massive  arch  of 
the  gate,  a  soldier  stepped  forward  and  politely 
offered  to  conduct  us  around  the  fort.  We  under- 
stood him  clearly,  for  this  was  not  our  first  ex- 
perience of  the  kind.  "Backsheeah"  is  the  magic 
word.  He  conducted  us  around,  speaking  'his  little 
piece  as  he  went,  and  pointing  out  the  imiwrtant 
objects,  and  conducting  us  to  the  edge  of  the  par- 
apet, from  which  we  had  a  superb  view.  The  Cit- 
adel occupies  the  most  commanding  position  in 
Quebec,  having  a  clear  range  for  its  guns,  most 
of  which  are  obsolete,  though  we  were  informed 
that  some  modem  pieces  are  being  installed.  The 
fortress  stands  303  feet  above  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Up  to  ten  or  twelve  years  ago  the  Citadel  was 
garrisoned  by  regular  British  troops,  who  were 
withdraMTi  at  tlie  request  of  Canada,  who  had 
grown  sufficiently  large  to  take  care  of  herself  (?). 
Though  still  a  fortress  and  gaiTlsoned  by  a  small 
body  of  Royal  Canadian  Militia,  its  chief  use  is 
for  military  stores.  Here  the  Governor-General 
and  suito  are  quartered  when  he  honors  Quebec 
with  a  visit  The  splendid  being  who  acted  as 
our  guide,  treading  the  floor  of  solid  rock  with 
majestic  footsteps,  took  us  to  the  centre  of  the 
pt'rade  ground,  where,  with  much  impressiveness, 
he  pointed  to  a  small  brass  cannon  on  which  was 


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MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


71 


an  Inscription  stating  tbat  it  was  captured  from 
the  Americans  at  Bunker  Hill.  I  wanted  to  dally 
around  until  the  soldier  glanced  away,  and  then 
slip  the  little  gun  into  my  pocket  and  take  it  away 
as  a  souvenir;  but  the  Junior  Partner  would  hoc 
let  me. 

As  we  returned  to  the  gate  our  escort  gracious- 
ly presented  the  Junior  Partner  with  a  button  of 
the  uniform  of  the  Royal  Canadian  Militia,  and 
she  showed  him  some  she  had  obtained  in  Hali- 
fax, regular  British  buttons  that  had  seen  service 
In  African  campaigns.  His  generous  and  gi'aceful 
act  could  not  go  unnoticed,  so  he  was  duly  re- 
warded with  some  silver.  Retiring  from  the  fort, 
we  ascended  the  glacis  and  walked  along  until  we 
saw  the  girl,  who  had  come  out  with  the  camera, 
having,  in  the  meantime,  put  on  clean  clothes  and 
combed  her  hair. 

Passing  down  along  the  walls,  we  we:'  through 
the  St.  Louis  Oate,  which  the  Junior  Partner  pho- 
tographed, and  proceeded  to  the  Plains  of  Abra- 
ham. Just  before  reaching  the  Plains  we  left  the 
street  and  CTos«*td  a  broad  stretch  of  land  devoted 
to  pasturage,  to  the  Martello  Tower,  and  then 
walked  across  another  pasture,  where  the  Junior 
Partner  saw,  peacefully  grazing,  a  flock  of  fero- 
cious man-eating  cows;  clim>bed  fences,  crossed  a 
field,  walking  past  the  prison  to  the  Plains  of  Ab- 
raham, stopping  at  the  tall  marble  shaft  which 
marks  the  spot  where  Wolfe  fell,  mortally  wound- 
ed. It  bears  this  inscription:— "Here  Wolfe  died 
victorious";  and  his  illustrious  foe,  Montcalm,  also 
wounded,  retreated  within  the  walls  to  die.  The 
Junior  Partner  secured  a  photograph  of  it.    While 


72 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


there  we  met  a  voluble  American,  from  New  York 
State,  who  at  once  entered  into  conversation  with 
us.  After  talking  with  him  ten  minutes  no  one 
could  doubt  that  the  world  was  made  lu  seven 
days.  He  had  left  his  wife  standing  out  by  the 
road,  while  he  came  over  to  inspect  the  battle- 
field. He  told  us  who  ho  was,  that  his  wife  was 
a  Bostonian  and  that  they  were  married  in  Trin- 
ity Church  by  Phillips  Brooks.  His  wife  was  an 
enthusiastic  collector  of  china,  and  she  bothered 
him  by  disappearing  at  unexpected  moments  into 
some  place  in  search  of  rare  china.  He  had  been 
kept  so  busy  hunting  up  his  better  half  that  he 
had  not  had  much  time  to  make  a  historical  in- 
spection of  Quebec;  so  he  enlisted  our  aid  and 
drew  upon  the  knowledge  we  had  collected.  He 
was  a  Jovial,  pleasant  man,  polished  and  polite. 
Whipping  out  a  notebook  and  pencil  he  began  to 
check  off  the  places  that  he  had  seen. 

"Now  lot*s  see,"  said  lie,  indicating  the  entire 
territory  at  the  east  and  south  with  a  sweep  of  his 
hand,  "is  there  anything  off  there  worth  seeing?" 

We  replied  that  there  was  nothing  particularly 
Interesting  except  the  Martello  Tower.  Ho  said 
that  he  had  seen  that  on  his  way  up  in  the  car. 

"Now  let's  see,"  he  continued,  "Wolfe  and  his 
men  swarmed  up  from  over  there  (pointing 
toward  the  river)  and  met  Montcalm's  forces 
abort  here  (pointing  to  the  ground)  and  here  Is 
where  both  generals  were  wounded?" 

We  replied  that  we  believed  that  that  was  the 
impromptu  program. 

"I've  got  the  whole  bill,"  said  he,  slapping  the 
notebook  together  and  putting  it  in  his  pocket. 


il 


I 


MARTELLO    TOWER,    (QUEBEC. 


:> 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


t8 


All  the  while  his  wife  had  stood  out  by  the  road, 
frequently  beckoning  to  him.  But  he  did  not  hurry 
until  he  had  taken  in  the  "whole  bill.'* 

The  Martello  Towers,  already  spoken  of,  were 
not  erected  until  1812,  and,  while  they  are  formid- 
ably built,  they  were  weakly  constructed  toward 
the  city,  so  that,  in  case  of  capture  they  might  be 
easily  destroyed. 

A  short  distance  away  from  the  shaft,  on  the 
escarpment  overhanging  the  St.  Lawi-ence,  is  the 
path  by  which  the  Britisli  troops  scaled  the  cliffs 
on  the  night  before  the  battle;  and  at  the  foot 
of  the  rocks  is  Wolfe's  Cove,  where  the  forces 
landed. 

Leading  from  near  the  east  end  of  Dufferin 
Terrace,  a  long  flight  of  steps  leads  from  the  Up- 
per to  the  Lower  Town.  Formerly  this  was  the 
only  means  of  going  from  the  upper  to  the  lower 
part  of  the  city,  and  vice  versa;  but  now  there  Is 
an  Inclined  elevator,  whose  car,  drawn  by  a  cable, 
slides  up  and  down  in  a  covered  passageway  be- 
tween the  Terrace  and  Little  Champlain  Street 
below.  We  went  down  the  steps  and  turned  into 
Little  Champlain  Street,  which  is,  by  all  odds,  the 
quaintest,  narrowest,  oldest  and  most  curious  of 
the  city's  thoroughfares.  We  walked  along  it  un- 
til we  reached  the  toot  of  the  cliff,  on  the  top  of 
which  is  perched  the  Citadel,  a  sheer  ascent  of 
more  than  three  hundred  feet.  We  were  much  in- 
terested In  seeing  where,  about  ten  years  ago,  a 
great  mass  of  rock  broke  away  and  fell  from  the 
height  above,  some  200  feet,  wrecking  many 
houses  In  Little  Champlain  Street  and  killing 
about  forty  people.  There  is  one  honse  still  stand- 


74 


MONTREAL  BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


ing,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  with  a  part 
of  one  end  gone,  carried  away  by  the  avalanche 
of  rock.  We  returned  to  the  Uppet  Town  by  the 
elevator. 

Only  a  few  hours  more  remained  for  us  In  Que- 
bec; but  before  finally  taking  leave  of  the  city  we 
wish  to  devote  a  paragraph  to  the  caleche  drivers. 
The  caleche  is  the  predominating  public  vehicle 
of  this  city  of  the  "Golden  Dog,"  and  it  is  a  com- 
fort to  know  that  it  will  be  found  nowhere  else; 
not  because  It  Is  not  a  convenient  and  comfortable 
carriage,  but  because  the  drivers  of  them  are  so 
obtrusive  and  insolent  as  to  be  veritable  pests. 
The  caleche  is  a  two-wheeled,  one-horse  affair, 
with  a  hood  like  that  on  a  buggy.  In  front  of  the 
seat  there  is  a  small  seat,  slightly  elevated.  When 
the  driver  is  waiting  for  a  fare  he  sits  on  the  pas- 
sengers' seat;  but  when  he  secures  a  victim  he 
perches  himself  upon  the  seat  in  front,  and  the 
caleche  dashes  away,  careering  along  the  narrow, 
crooked  and  steep  streets.  The  caleche  driver  is 
never  out  of  sight.  He  infests  every  corner  and 
every  street,  especially  in  the  sections  of  the  city 
most  frequented  by  tourists.  If  the  visitor  pauses 
anywhere,  stops  to  glance  at  anything,  crosses  a 
square,  or  happens,  by  the  merest  accident,  to 
glance  in  the  direction  of  a  caleche  driver,  up  goes 
his  hand  in  mute  inquiry;  or.  If  he  is  within  speak- 
ing distance  he  repeats,  "Caleche?  Caleche?  Ca- 
leche?" until  the  visitor  is  out  of  sight  and  hear- 
ing. Often  we  noticed  them  long  distances  away, 
with  hands  held  aloift,  their  wrists  curved  like  in- 
terrogation points.  The  best  course  to  pursue  is 
to  take  no  notice  whatever  of  them.  Ignore  them, 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


tft 


make  no  reply,  if  one  does  not  require  the  services 
of  a  caleche.  They  will  even  drive  in  front  of  one 
and  <^top  directly  in  his  path;  but  we  had  seen  the 
carriage  drivers  of  Kingston,  Jamaica,  do  that.  I 
would  not  advise  the  tourist  to  talce  a  caleche  in 
visiting  the  places  of  interest  in  Quebec,  because 
they  rush  around  from  one  place  to  another,  giv- 
ing only  opportunity  for  a  momentary  glance  at 
objects  of  tlie  greatest  Interest,  so  eager  are  they 
to  bo  on  the  lookout  for  another  fare;  and  this, 
notwithstanding  the  fact  that,  unless  the  traveler 
is  on  to  their  methods,  they  have  Charged  an  ex- 
orbitant rate.  They  will  always  name  a  price 
two  or  three,  or  even  four  times  as  much  as  tho 
service  is  worth.  If  the  traveler  is  posted  he  has 
no  trouble  in  beating  them  down  to  a  reasonable 
figure.  Our  fondest  wish  is  that  the  caleche 
driver,  after  he  takes  a  last  leave  of  Quebec,  wiH 
continue  forever  to  drive  his  caleche,  with  red-Tiot 
tires,  over  pavements  of  hot  lava,  or  until  the  ve- 
hicle shrinks  in  the  everlasting  heat  and  drops  to 
pieces,  letting  him  down  to  sizzle  upon  the  super- 
heated pavements  of  the  Infernal  regions. 

The  remainder  of  the  day  was  spent  in  visiting 
some  of  the  quaintest  streets,  in  buying  some 
fruit,  which  we  found  as  fine  and  about  as  cheap 
as  could  be  obtained  in  any  large  American  city; 
In  walking  along  the  walls  overlooklT!,'?  the  Iiower 
Town,  sitting  in  the  park  at  the  foot  of  the  Ter- 
race, and  in  inspecting  the  Grand  Battery, 
"grand**  only  from  an  ornamental  standpoint,  for 
the  guns,  pointing  out  over  the  walls  toward  Levis 
across  the  river,  are  obsolete;  but,  from  an  orna- 
mental point  of  view,  they  are  very  effective,  their 
smooth  brown  barrels  ranged  in  a  row. 


OHAPTBR  X. 


We  took  the  nigrbt  boat  back  to  Montreal 
Tbe  0teamer-4}be  '^Montreal"— sailed  at  6.80  p. 
m.,  but  'we  went  on  board  balf  an  hour 
before  sailing  time,  and  after  placing  our 
traps  in  the  stateroom,  we  sat  on  deck 
and  watched  the  scenes  on  shore  until  the  lines 

were  cast  off.  We  were  somewhat  interested  in 
watching  the  ferry-boats  that  ply  between  Que- 
bec and  Levis,  make  landings.  They  came  up 
near  where  the  Montreal  was  lying,  and  it  took 
them  as  long  to  land  as  an  ocean  steamer  would 
reqniro.  After  finally  making  fast  to  the  wharf, 
a  gang-plank  was  hauled  aboard  and  the  passen- 
gers and  teams  went  ashore  over  it  A  long  time 
would  Americans  endure  such  slow  methods  on  a 
ferry. 

The  lines  were  cast  off,  and  the  Montreal  swung 
out  Into  the  river.  As  she  backed  away,  we  no- 
ticed a  commotion  on  the  wharf,  and  saw  a 
Pi-enchman  standing  there,  gesticulating  wildly, 
shouting  and  shaking  his  fists  at  the  retreating 
steamer.  He  had  arrived  too  late,  and  goft  left. 
He  wanted  the  boat  to  return  for  him— but  it  did 
not.  • 

We  sat  on  deck  while  the  steamer  glided  on, 
leaving  the  old  city  behind;  and  the  last  glimpse 
we  had  of  it  was  the  gray  Citadel  and  the  even 
more  imposing  Chateau  Frontenac,  standing  aloft 
on  the  top  of  the  rock,  its  classic  walls  of  stone 
sharply  outlined   against  the  glowing  sky,  the 


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MONTREAL   BY  WAY   OP  CHAZY. 


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most  prominent  object  seen  either  leaving  or  ap- 
proaching Quebec. 

The  evening  wa«  very  cool— cold  In  fact,  so  cold 
that  the  passengers  could  not  stay  on  deck,  but  all 
huddled  In  the  saloon  with  wraps  about  them.  As 
for  US,  we  secured  a  position  as  near  the  smoKex 
stack  as  we  could.  The  only  Interesting  occur- 
rence before  It  was  dark,  was  the  meeting  and 
passing  of  the  Caspian,  bound  for  Quebec.  We 
waved  to  Oaptaln  Oralg,  and  thought  we  saw  him 
answer  us  from  the  pilot  house. 

When  we  went  oil  deck  In  the  morning  the 
steamer  lay  at  her  wharf  at  Montreal,  and,  going 
ashore,  we  went  at  once  to  the  hotel  and  ordered 
breakfast.  Then  we  started  out  to  look  about  the 
city,  first  calling  at  the  post-otiice,  afterward  do- 
ing a  little  shopping. 

In  the  course  of  our  wanderings  we  passed  Bon- 
iiecours  Market^  where  we  saw  stalls  in  charge  of 
women,  and  some  splendid  fruits  and  vegetables 
exposed  for  sale.  One  can  obtain  very  poor  spruce 
beer,  which  Is  rendered  still  more  unpalatable  by 
putting  into  it  lemon  or  some  other  syrup.  They 
should  go  down  to  Nova  Scotia  and  learn  how  to 
make  and  serve  spruce  beer. 

The  authors,  in  convention  assembled,  seriously 
and  with  deliberation,  hereby  desire  to  put  them- 
selves on  record  and  state  that  the  hack  drivers 
of  Montreal  are  about  the  most  obstreperous  and 
careless  lot  of  fiendish  Jehus  that  they  ever  met 
in  all  their  travels.  They  do  not  hesitate  to  delib- 
erately run  people  down,  and  If  one  happens  to  be 
in  a  close  place,  it  makes  no  difference  to  them. 
They  give  a  pedestrian  no  show  whatever.    So  far 


78 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


as  the  cab  service  of  Montreal  is  concerned,  It  Is 
superb,  plenty  of  it,  and  cheap. 

After  dinner  we  took  the  camera  and  sallied 
forth,  with  two  objects  in  view;  one  being  to  visit 
the  Chateau  de  Ramezay,  on  Notre  Dame  Street, 
and  to  "wing"  a  priest  in  heavy  marching  order, 
with  flowing  soutaine  and  shovel  hats.  We  first 
visited  the  Chateau,  where  there  are  interesting 
and  extensive  collections  of  historic  objects  relat- 
ing to  and  having  some  bearing  upon  the  history 
of  Canada.  It  is  worth  far  more  time  than  we 
were  able  to  give  It,  for  a  whole  day  might  be  de- 
voted to .  its  Inspection  with  pleasure  and  profit. 
It  contains  some  fine  paintings  and  other  rare 
treasures.  The  old  building  is  probably  the  most 
historically  interesting  structure  In  Montreal,  for, 
In  times  past,  it  served  as  the  residence  of  the 
early  Governors;  and  some  darli  tales  are  related 
in  connection  with  it  and  the  vegetable  cellars  be- 
neath, whi(;h  are  said  to  have  been  utilized  as  dun- 
geons for  refractory  Indians. 

Leaving  the  Chateau  we  focused  the  camera, 
uncovered  a  plate  and  lay  in  wait  for  a  priest  for 
half  an  hour  or  so;  but,  although  we  saw  several, 
we  were  unable  to  get  one  within  range.  So  we 
gave  it  up  and  boarded  an  open  car  for  a  trip 
around  Mount  Royal.  It  was  a  delightful  experi- 
ence. We  passed  through  the  "French  quarter," 
which  may  be  alluded  to  as  the  "tenderloin  dis- 
trict" of  Montreal,  where  children  of  all  sizes  are 
as  numerous  as  flies  at  a  country  hotel.  With  only 
one  change  we  made  the  tour  of  the  mountain, 
Piissing  many  beautiful  residences  and  extensive 
market  gardens,  through  woods  and  along  s>haded 


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MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF  CHAZY. 


79 


roads.  The  car  ran  at  high  speed  and  it  was  an 
exhilarating  experience. 

The  conductors  on  the  cars  in  Montreal  handle 
no  money— paid  for  fares  by  passengers.  They 
carry  tickets  that  they  sell,  six  for  twenty-flve 
cents,  and  when  they  collect  a  fare  they  pass  a 
sort  of  little  metallic  pitcher,  with  a  slot  in  the 
top,  into  which  the  passenger  slips  a  ticlcet.  If 
the  fare  is  paid  in  money,  the  silver  coin  is 
dropped  into  the  slot;  and  if  the  imssenger  passes 
the  conductor,  say  half  a  dollar,  that  genius 
makes  the  change,  passing  it  all  to  the  passenger, 
who  selects  the  correct  coin  and  drops  it  into  the 
slot. 

As  in  the  United  States,  the  passenger  is  cau- 
tioned to  "be  careful  in  getting  on  or  off  the  car"; 
although  here,  as  in  the  United  States,  he  usually 
gets  off  wliere,  how  and  when  hie  chooses. 

"Faites  attention  en  montant  dans  le  tramway 
et  en  en  descendant,"  is  the  way  the  admonition 
reads  on  the  Montreal  electrics. 

We  spent  our  last  evening  in  Montreal  sitting 
in  the  park,  at  our  favorite  occupation— observ- 
ing and  studying  the  people,  later  calling  around 
to  bid  adieu  to  our  friends. 


s'*  ;    I 


/n 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Although  I  have  been,  for  a  mimber  of  years, 
a  rather  close  student  of  Canadian  politics, 
I  was  slow  to  admit,  even  to  myself,  what 
seemed  quite  apparent,  that  Canada  was  hostile 
to  the  United  States.  I  reasoned  that  what 
seemed  to  be  an  unfriendly  attitude  on  the  part 
of  the  Dominion  was  simply  the  political  hostil* 
ity  of  the  governing  classes. 

Nevertheless,  as  time  went  on,  I  became  con- 
vinced that  my  deductions  were  correct,  and  that 
Canada,  of  her  own  free  will,  was  our  inveterate 
foe.  During  two  visits  to  the  Maritime  Provinces, 
I  observed  carefully  the  sentiment  there  toward 
the  United  States,  and  somewhat  to  my  surprise, 
as  well  as  to  my  great  gratification,  I  found  only 
the  opposite  of  an  unfriendly  feeling  towards  us. 
Agahi  I  thought  that  I  must  have  erred  in  my 
conclusions;  but  careful  observations  during  this 
visit  to  tbat  part  of  Canada  lying  to  the  north  of 
us,  left  no  doubt  in  my  mind  as  to  the  accuracy 
of  my  previous  deductions. 

That  Canada,  with  the  exception  of  the  Mari- 
time Provinces,  is  bitterly  hostile  to  us,  and  with- 
out good  reason,  there  is  not  a  shadow  of  doubt. 
The  secular  and  the  periodical  press  reflect  the 
true  sentiment  of  the  people,  who  embrace  every 
opportunity  and  avail  themse.  res  of  the  flimsiest 
pretexts  to  criticise  the  United  States,  our  gov- 
ernment, politics,  political  and  social  morals  and 
to  discr(?dit  the  motives  of  our  government  on 
matters  of  international  interest  in  which  we  are 


MONTREAL   BY  WAY  OF  CHAZY. 


81 


engaged.  Nothing  is  too  vituperative  to  be  said 
concerning  the  people  of  the  United  Sfcites,  thoir 
antecedents  and  their  morals.  This  government 
Is  pictured  as  devoid  of  all  honor  and  integrity, 
and  Incapable  of  any  high,  pure  motives.  The 
United  States  is  described  as  an  octopus,  reaching 
out  to  grasp  whatsoever  it  may,  regardless  of  all 
claims  of  right,  wrong  and  humanity. 

This,  in  brief,  Is  Canadian  sentiment  toward  the 
United  States. 

This  Is,  in  part,  due  to  extreme  Jealousy;  and, 
coupled  wth  her  hatred  for  the  republic  at  the 
south,  Canada  Is  generally  disgruntled  toward 
Great  Britain,  so  that,  between  damning  the  Un- 
ited States  and  singing  "God  Save  the  Queen," 
the  Dominion  labors  under  the  impression  that  it 
behooves  her  to  "keep  her  powder  pans  well 
filled,"  for  she  thinks  that  the  Washington  gov- 
ernment and  London  are  hand  and  glove,  to  the 
detriment  of  Canada. 

Aside  from  her  general  jealousy,  her  bitterness 
over  tariffs,  the  fi»heries  and  the  Alaskan  bound- 
ary, Canada  has  a  long  list  of  grievances  against 
the  United  States,  for  which  she  holds  England 
partly  responsible  for  being  too  yielding  in  certain 
negotiations  between  the  two  countries. 

The  peace  negotiations  of  1782-3,  which  resulted 
In  the  treaty  acknowledging  the  Independence  of 
the  Thirteen  Colonies  is  the  first  event  in  the  list 
of  Canada's  bitter  pills.  Today  Canada  is  still 
muttering  to  herself:-— "The  ministry  of  Great 
Britain,  careless  of  the  future  of  Canada,  yielded 
to  every  demand,  abandoned  the  loyalists,  and, 
after  losing  thirteen  British  colonies,  in  a  fit  of 


82 


MONTREAL   BY   WAY   OF  CHAZV. 


unintelligible  and  unappreciated  benevolence,  gra- 
tuitously made  the  United  States  a  present  of  suf- 
ficient British  and  Canadian  territory  to  make 
nine  and  one-half  more— thus  adding  to  the  lost 
and  revolted  colonies  an  additional  empu-e  of  351,- 
000  square  miles!" 

Then,  the  treaty  following  the  war  of  1812,  was 
a  humiliating  experience  to  Canada  which  she  has 
never  forgotten  and  from  which  she  has  never 
recovered.  Then,  to  quote  a  wail  of  a  Canadian 
historian  of  the  present  day,  "the  generosity  of 
Groat  Britain  further  endowed  the  Republic  with 
other  large  portions  of  Canadian  territory  and 
made  aliens  of  other  British  subjects  who  had 
their  homes  there.  During  the  war  of  1812  the 
British  forces  and  Canadian  militia  had  captured 
and  held  possession  of  Maine  on  the  east,  and  all 
of  Michigan  and  the  territory  westward  to  the 
Mississippi.  Great  Britain's  historic  generosity 
restored  aii  these  conquered  territories  to  the  Un- 
ited States,  as  a  peace  offering,  by  the  treaty  of 
Ghent  in  1814.  Her  peace  offering  was  unappreci- 
ated, and  She  was  afterward  rewarded  with  the 
Maine  and  Oregon  boundary  disputes,  and  Jin  In- 
solent threat  of  war.  By  the  Ashburton  trealy  of 
1842  ishe  ceded  some  millions  of  Canadian  acres, 
and  her  officers,  without  any  treaty  authorizing 
the  change,  gratuitously  added  a  strip  of  territory 
between  the  Connecticut  and  St.  Lawrence  rivers, 
over  150  miles  in  length.  By  a  carelessly  described 
boundary  she  lost  large  islands  in  Lake  Superior 
and  about  4000  acres  of  an  isolated  promontory  on 
the  Lake  of  the  Woods;  and  by  later  indifference 
she  allowed  the  diplomatic  lawyers  of  the  United 


MONTREAL    BY   WAY   OF   CHAZY. 


88 


gra- 
suf- 

mko 
lost 

351,. 


States  to  pry  Canada  out  of  several  million  acres 
of  Oregon  territory  and  good  harbors  in  the  Pa- 
cific of  about  six  degrees  of  latitude;  and  by  de- 
scribing a  line  through  a  strait,  In  ignorance  of 
Canadian  localities,  siie  was  arbitrated  out  of  the 
island  of  San  Juan." 

Canada  is  still  harboring  bad  blood  over  the 
Fenian  raids  which  fermented  In  this  country.  1 
have  mentioned  the  fisheries  controversy  and  the 
tariffs,  notable  among  the  latter  being  the  Ding- 
lej'  tariff,  all  of  which  Canada  is  very  sore  over. 

Canadian  sentiment  may  be  summed  up  as  fol- 
lows: "The  acts  of  armed  hostility  and  political 
unneighborliness  on  the  part  of  the  politicians  of 
the  United  States,  have,  at  the  times,  roused  a 
spirit  of  resistance  and  anger— even  to  a  threat- 
ened lex  talionis— in  Canada!" 

Canada  is  our  bitter  for*  and  instead  of  devoting 
herself  to  developing  her  own  latent  industries, 
she  is  continually  reminding  herself  of  what  a 
great  countrj'  she  would  be  did  she  occupy  the  en- 
tire North  American  continent  and  keeping  her- 
self in  a  constant  rage  over  her  fancied  grievances 
at  the  hands  of  the  United  States. 


'4 


